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View Full Version : bezel and cutting it to the right length



Milomade
09-07-2009, 04:39 PM
Ok - So how does everyone measure their bezel strip when wanting to set a stone? I'm a beginner and using small buttons instead of stones and finding it really fiddly winding the bezel strip around the button and doing it that way - surely there's a better way to do it that's more acurate and less fiddly.

MuranoSilver
09-07-2009, 04:46 PM
Hmm you could use one of those plastic ring sizers that cooksons sell
(they're white plastic slidy things) Measure the size with that then flatten it out & cut the strip to the length it measured. You'd still have to wind it round the button eventually though (as you'd need to shape it prior to soldering the seam and attaching it to whatever base you're using)...

Nic x

Milomade
09-07-2009, 04:50 PM
that's a good idea - would probably have to make my own though as the buttons a smaller than teh average finger...I could even use a bit of old measuring tape.

Thanks!
Problem solved.

I've got 40 buttons to do this w/e, so that's going to help a lot.

agent_44
10-07-2009, 01:13 AM
I measure the diameter of the stone if it is round, then calculate the circumference from that and then the really technical bit, I add a smidge on to account for the thickmess of the bezel strip! You've then also got a bit of leeway to file down to a perfect join for soldering.

amazingbabe
11-07-2009, 07:38 AM
Hi was wondering can anybody share with me what size sheet silver they use for the back of a bezel????

The Bijou Dragon
11-07-2009, 08:46 AM
Hi was wondering can anybody share with me what size sheet silver they use for the back of a bezel????

I sa on another thread Murano Glass said most people use .5 but she uses .7 (I think)

As for the question, a simple strip of paper will do the job. Cut a 5mm wide strip of paper, wrap around the gem snugly (but not too tight), mark where the ends overlap, cut and voila...the size of the stones circumference :)

Ominicci
16-07-2009, 04:54 PM
For easy bezel you could use a 'rod' of the same size (I use my measuring calipers to get the right diameter) and it is easier to wrap around than a stone cab - or button. I usually try and find something in the house that works first - pen, marker, broom handle. Or various sized wooden dowels from the hardware store (you just have to buy a whole one!). When you are really rich you can get a set of bezel mandrels like at wirewrapmandrels. com - but don't forget you will probably pay customs on it too though.

amberdragon
16-07-2009, 10:08 PM
One I recently saw is to use the sticky edge of a postit note. You place the stone on a flat surface then wrap the postit sticky edge round. The paper sticks to the stone and itself so you can easily mark and cut it to fit. Then you have a template ready to use. I am embarking on making my own bezels very soon so haven't tried it, but I can see this method would work extremely well. Oh yes, mustn't forget, it is important to make sure that you measure the edge which sits directly on the flat surface and not a higher up part of the stone - obvious I know:rolleyes:, but we do need to be careful of measurements. I'd hate to be responsible for anyone measuring it wrong and having the wrong size strip of silver. I hope this is of use.

Milomade
16-07-2009, 10:13 PM
I'm going to try that out now - sounds like a good idea!

caroleallen
27-07-2009, 05:02 PM
Sounds like a good idea to me as well. I don't do much stone setting but next time I do, I'll try that method.

Di Sandland
27-07-2009, 07:12 PM
I've done it the post it note way and it made it a whole lot easier. I use 0.7mm sheet for back, it feels better in the hand afterwards than thinner stuff.

Di x

mizgeorge
28-07-2009, 05:53 AM
I also use the post it note trick. It's always better to be slightly on the small (tight) side rather than too big - bezel strip is very forgiving and easy to resize upwards a little, but much harder to reduce.

I also use 0.7 backing sheet, and ususally pierce it (either matched to the cup shape or with a freeform squiggle) to get more light into the piece.

Milomade
28-07-2009, 10:14 AM
I tried the post it note idea, but found it far too fiddly with a small button. I can see this working for large stones, but for tiny buttons I went back to just bending the bezel around the button and fiddling about with it as usual. I'll get the hang of it sooner or later.

Daved
29-07-2009, 10:45 AM
Try wrapping a piece of binding wire around the stone, twisting the wire tight with pliers. Slip off the wire ring and holding it by the twisted portion snip throught the ring of wire. Flatten out to a T shape (the top of the T representing the former ring shape) and present to the bezel wire and mark. Can't remember where I came across this method so I can't claim credit.

Denice
24-08-2009, 06:50 PM
I use the method David suggests - it's cheap, easy, accurate and I always have binding wire around!

Bigwol
07-10-2009, 11:54 PM
To find the length of metal required to make a setting which fits perfectly around a stone of a given diameter you need to use the following formula, which incorporates the metal thickness as well as the diameter.

This also works for calculating the length of metal needed to make a ring - (same thing really). I know this formula is different from the one usually quoted but mine works . .

(Stone diameter + metal thickness) * Pi

For example, if the diameter was 18mm and the bezel metal was 0.5mm thick

18 + 0.5 = 18.5

18.5 x 3.14159 = 58.12 mm

Note that if the bezel metal was 1mm thick the length would need to increase

eg 18 + 1 = 19

19 x 3.14159 = 59.69 mm

I've found this reliable over the years

Cheers

Dave

jetlag
19-10-2009, 08:40 PM
One I recently saw is to use the sticky edge of a postit note. You place the stone on a flat surface then wrap the postit sticky edge round. The paper sticks to the stone and itself so you can easily mark and cut it to fit. Then you have a template ready to use. I am embarking on making my own bezels very soon so haven't tried it, but I can see this method would work extremely well. Oh yes, mustn't forget, it is important to make sure that you measure the edge which sits directly on the flat surface and not a higher up part of the stone - obvious I know:rolleyes:, but we do need to be careful of measurements. I'd hate to be responsible for anyone measuring it wrong and having the wrong size strip of silver. I hope this is of use.


I saw that on YouTube. Looked a really good idea. She tore most of the paper off, just leaving the sticky strip.

Boo
19-10-2009, 10:02 PM
When I measure round irregular stones and beach glass etc. for wire wrapping, I use a thin strip of masking tape (I cut it narrower lengthways). I can then mark the tape where I want wraps to go for best grip etc. I can then stick it down on my work surface and use it as a template to start the structure.

Wire wrapping doesn't need to be as accurate as a bezel, but it would take a good enough measure to cut your strip to start forming it. If it were a round stone I'd calculate it probably.

jetlag
20-10-2009, 08:55 AM
Masking tape, what a great idea.

Quilt shops sell masking tape that is only 1/4" wide. Maybe that would be less fiddly on buttons?

bustagasket
20-10-2009, 09:22 AM
I havent tried setting yet, i watched Nic do a Bezel setting, she made it look very easy lol, i have finally got my tutor to show me the first part of the tube setting for my little bracelet, and i have now polished it ready for the stones to go in, but of course, she has now taken an extra week off before half term, so no college for 2 weeks and then i might finally get the stones in!

jetlag
20-10-2009, 11:36 AM
How frustrating! There are a lot of students of varying skill levels and sometimes she doesn't get to me at all :N:

bustagasket
20-10-2009, 11:49 AM
How frustrating! There are a lot of students of varying skill levels and sometimes she doesn't get to me at all :N:

Tell me about it!!!

I joined the last term of last years course, so she hasnt really sat down with me to explain stuff. I am not very good at pushing her either :-s.

A new group of girls started at the beginning of this term, and she seems to alot time to them, whereas her comment to me was "oh you;re fine, you will soon pick this up" but it helps if i am shown stuff first!!.

I have spent the last two weeks wasting time at the class, just waiting to set these stones, doing stuff that i could be doing at home, like sanding and filing, not projects that require assistance. I want to get this bracelet out of the way so i can move onto my serpent pendant, and i am gonna need her advice and time to get that to work right, just hope i can get her for long enough. Otherwise i will sit there like last week twiddling my thumbs waiting to hear what i was to do next to get the tube bit ready to accept the stones.

As you say its all very frustrating, and not at all how i imagined it would be. It cost £75 per term, which is probably not much, but i dont feel i am really being taught, and it seems more of a kind of social meeting for some. So i will take it one term at a time, but if she is not going to be showing any more techniques (she only does the tube stone setting for example) then i will save my money and look elsewhere.

jetlag
20-10-2009, 12:01 PM
I think my teacher is just easily distracted LOL a few weeks ago, after waiting for an hour to start soldering my ring, she was abut to start showing me but asked first what I'd been doing, so I said that another student had kindly been showing me doming. So, she spent 10 minutes then talking to her about how she was getting on :(|:(| LOL

bustagasket
20-10-2009, 12:20 PM
I think my teacher is just easily distracted LOL a few weeks ago, after waiting for an hour to start soldering my ring, she was abut to start showing me but asked first what I'd been doing, so I said that another student had kindly been showing me doming. So, she spent 10 minutes then talking to her about how she was getting on :(|:(| LOL

i think our tutors are related lol

amazingbabe
20-10-2009, 01:04 PM
Teach yourselves girls !!!! Its the only way ha ha !!!:Y:

bustagasket
20-10-2009, 01:40 PM
Teach yourselves girls !!!! Its the only way ha ha !!!:Y:

so i am discovering lol, i have learnt more from here, books and u-tube than i have learnt at college i think :(

Trish
19-01-2010, 04:28 PM
I tried this with post it notes with small cabochons 10 x 5mm .I struggled the stones were not deep enough to get a grip on the paper and the stone kept slipping or getting terribly stuck to the paper. I found the measuring thing worked better or simply wrapping the silver strip round , but i'm still lokking for a perfect solution.:)

lynnm
19-01-2010, 05:03 PM
Teach yourselves girls !!!! Its the only way ha ha !!!:Y:

or get a fabulous tutor like mine! :D

Dennis
19-01-2010, 06:48 PM
Bezel strip is rather flimsy and never the right width, so I now cut mine from fine silver sheet. Holding a ruler against the stone you can usually judge the width of bezel requred.
I have always found the formula for the length of bezel a bit iffy, so I splashed out on a large set of twist drills going upto 13mm.Good quality is not required but the shanks provide a variety of standard mandrells for most stones.
I just wind my annealed strip around the chosen drill shank and mark where to cut it.Once soldered, if it is a little too big I cut it through and solder again.If it is a little too small it can be expanded on a triblet.
For oval stones you add the length and width, divide by two,and treat it as round.After soldering it can be made oval and tried on the stone. If it is too large or too small, return it to the round shape with a triblet and adjust as above.
Sorry this is so long winded ,Dennis.

amazingbabe
19-01-2010, 08:57 PM
Excellent idea.... I just use a cloth measuring tape, wrap it round the stone then cut that amt off the bezel wire (super di duper :Y:)

Trish
19-01-2010, 09:17 PM
I have tried using this method but it didnot work for me. i was using 10 x 5mm cabochons . the paper wouldnt stay around the stone long enough to stick it to itself. #The paper stuck together and the stone tipped out despite several efforts.I measure the stone or just wrap the bezel strip around the stone and mark it . but it isn't perfect and any ideas are welcome. I think the paper method might work with chunkier stones though.