Dremel recommendations for newbie

[Kimmee27]

Hi all,

I'm fairly new to jewellery making (and totally new to the forum) and have mostly worked with silver clay. Now I want to up my game and work with sheet silver. Can anyone recommend a Dremel that I can drill holes with - to begin with I just want to drill holes to thread jump rings through but as I become more confident & experienced I will obviously want the Dremel to do more. I've looked on Cooksongold but the range of drills is a bit overwhelming so 1. Which Dremel and 2. Does that come with drill bits to drill holes with.

Sorry for being so ignorant!! Kim

[Patstone]

Hello and welcome. It depends how much you want to spend really. I pushed the boat out and got a pendant motor when I first started, but they are quite expensive. Something with a variable speed is quite useful, and not too heavy as you have to hold it. Sorry I can't help more but never owned a dremel, I am sure someone will be on later.

[Stacey]

I've failed at drilling through silver or copper sheet with my Dremel. It does drill plaster, wood .... but there is something about the torque which makes it very ineffective for drilling metal. It's fine for polishing though and a useful hand tool.

If all you want to do is drill holes than I'd recommend a bow drill from your favourite source, this is Cookson's http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Bow-Drill-prcode-999-331. It takes a little practice, but it works brilliantly. Infinitely better than my Dremel (which is not the low end hobby one, so it's not the model that is the problem, but the tool itself).

[Kimmee27]

Thank you both for your replies. I think I will still get a Dremel but also the bow drill which I had seen but thought it might not be so good, so thanks Stacey - I will take up your recommendation :)

[Patstone]

I bought a small Proxxon stand drill for drilling holes ....doh what else would you use it for.....it wasn't that e expensive and you can put fairly big drill bits in too. That bow drill looks like something Noah may have used. It's a Proxxon TB 220. Didn't realise it was that much money but its very good.

[Stacey]

I bought a small Proxxon stand drill for drilling holes ....doh what else would you use it for.....it wasn't that e expensive and you can put fairly big drill bits in too. That bow drill looks like something Noah may have used. It's a Proxxon TB 220. Didn't realise it was that much money but its very good.

Noah built a rather large wooden ship using his bow drill. Proxon £180 roughly. Bow drill £20. It's rather soothing to use as well. If your objective is to drill holes in sheet than a bow drill works brilliantly.

When I win the lotterly I'm going to plunk for a Proxon and a Foredom though .... but I suspect I'll still reach for my bow drill once in a while.

[CJ57]

I bought a small Proxxon stand drill for drilling holes ....doh what else would you use it for.....it wasn't that e expensive and you can put fairly big drill bits in too. That bow drill looks like something Noah may have used. It's a Proxxon TB 220. Didn't realise it was that much money but its very good.

I love my proxxon bench drill and wouldn't be without it now. It's a piece of equipment that you'll always use no matter what you go on to make. Until its purchase I used only the metal version of the 'bow' drill which used to be called an Archimedes drill because he invented it so you are almost right Pat! And it still works

[Patstone]

Sorry didn't mean to be rude and offend anyone. I am a bit of a tool junkie, could do with selling some of them really. Bought cheap when I started and then of course found that cheap didn't do the job very well. So bought more!!!!!!

[CJ57]

I've failed at drilling through silver or copper sheet with my Dremel. It does drill plaster, wood .... but there is something about the torque which makes it very ineffective for drilling metal. It's fine for polishing though and a useful hand tool.

If all you want to do is drill holes than I'd recommend a bow drill from your favourite source, this is Cookson's http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Bow-Drill-prcode-999-331. It takes a little practice, but it works brilliantly. Infinitely better than my Dremel (which is not the low end hobby one, so it's not the model that is the problem, but the tool itself).

There are some tools that are just nice to use then you buy something to be more time efficient, less hard work and a bit more precise sometimes if you drill a lot of holes. I still return to the hand worked originals though although I haven't used the wooden Archimedes since college. There is something about old tools, I even used my grandads wood drill with the handle you have to turn sometimes:)

[Goldsmith]

If you have space in your workshop for a bench drill check these out; https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-cdp5eb-5-speed-bench-mounted-pillar-dri it is only 2 ft. tall and costs £72.

James

[Stacey]

I love my proxxon bench drill and wouldn't be without it now. It's a piece of equipment that you'll always use no matter what you go on to make. Until its purchase I used only the metal version of the 'bow' drill which used to be called an Archimedes drill because he invented it so you are almost right Pat! And it still works

The archimedes drill http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Hand-Archimedean-Drill-prcode-999-330 is similar to a bow drill in that it uses person power and not electricity to move the drill bit. It takes pretty much forever to make a hole with an Archimedian drill, the bow drill is much speedier. I've heard others praise the Proxxon too. I know there are cheaper out there, but from the hours I spent researching bench drills and reading reviews before coming to my financial senses the Proxxon comes out tops.

[Stacey]

Sorry didn't mean to be rude and offend anyone. I am a bit of a tool junkie, could do with selling some of them really. Bought cheap when I started and then of course found that cheap didn't do the job very well. So bought more!!!!!!

You didn't offend me. I agree with the adage that when you buy cheap you buy twice, but if you're not in production mode then many times the simpler tools will do and do well.

[Stacey]

Kim,

When you order don't forget you need a center punch http://www.cooksongold.com/category_select.jsp?query=Standard+Centre+Punch&queryFromSuggest=true (you can buy automatic ones as well from Cookson or cheaper elsewhere) so that your drill bit has something to keep it steady before you start drilling with any type of drill.

[CJ57]

The archimedes drill http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Hand-Archimedean-Drill-prcode-999-330 is similar to a bow drill in that it uses person power and not electricity to move the drill bit. It takes pretty much forever to make a hole with an Archimedian drill, the bow drill is much speedier. I've heard others praise the Proxxon too. I know there are cheaper out there, but from the hours I spent researching bench drills and reading reviews before coming to my financial senses the Proxxon comes out tops.

The Archimedes I trained on in the 70s is definitely what they now call a bow drill and your link is called an Archimedes twist elsewhere, it works well too but as you say slow. Fire scale used to be fire stain and I still call it that, I also still use BMG for metal thickness and have to look up the Cookson table. They just keep on changing the names to confuse me:)!
The proxxon is ideal because it's so small and takes up very little bench space and if you buy the universal chuck as well as the fiddly wee things they provide then you are sorted for all sizes of drill. The vice is a bit of a waste as it can only be fixed in one direction and still moves side to side and I can't get anyone to tell me how to make it otherwise. What's the point of having to hold onto the vice?

[ajda]

If drilling silver is your main thing, I would seriously consider not choosing a Dremel. I have a one and it is useful for all sorts of other things, including drilling glass, but the low torque and relatively high speeds make it less than ideal for drilling metals. If you definitely need a powered drill, Proxxon or similar would be a better bet.

Though it's a great tool in some respects, I'm frustrated by the limitations of my Dremel and am now saving up for a good micro motor - but those are seriously expensive!

Alan

[ps_bond]

When you order don't forget you need a center punch http://www.cooksongold.com/category_select.jsp?query=Standard+Centre+Punch&queryFromSuggest=true (you can buy automatic ones as well from Cookson or cheaper elsewhere) so that your drill bit has something to keep it steady before you start drilling with any type of drill.

Pretty much anything slightly pointy will work as a centre punch on soft metals - if I need a centre dot then I'll usually use a graver. If you use a spear point drill then they won't wander, but that's only really ideal with a bow drill; twist drills similarly aren't great with the bow drill. The way I sharpen my twist drills mean they don't wander (well, unless I goof the sharpening).

Personally, I'd probably use a bow drill more if the thing were about half the size.


If drilling silver is your main thing, I would seriously consider not choosing a Dremel. I have a one and it is useful for all sorts of other things, including drilling glass, but the low torque and relatively high speeds make it less than ideal for drilling metals. If you definitely need a powered drill, Proxxon or similar would be a better bet.


Agreed. I started out using a Dremel and I would not recommend it, especially if stone setting. An inexpensive pendant motor with a foot pedal is a better bet (eg http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-heavy-duty-flexible-drive-unit ), but (even a cheap) micromotor would be even better. Plenty of threads on them.

[Dennis]

Dremels are enticing for beginners, but turn out to be a total waste of money for jewellers. If you can't visualise a time when you will have saved enough cash for an expensive motor, then you should consider a Marathon micromotor from China, which can be had for less than £100 including freight, taxes and handling charge.

I have had one as a spare for a year and find that I prefer the way it handles to my four times more expensive Ram Products one. Dennis

[orestruck]

I have a pendant motor from Axminster. It's more than adequate. Actually it's a really good piece of kit for the money!

Sarah

[ajda]

Great tip re Marathon micromotors, Dennis - do you know if there's any chuck-type fitting that you can use with those instead of the standard collets?

[Dennis]

No, the handpieces will only take 2.35 mm shanks, but that is not usually a disadvantage, unless you already have a stash of Dremel tools.

The models have different looking control boxes, but the straight hand pieces, which contain the motor and are intended for workshops, all look alike. They also offer contra angle handpieces and a short straight handpiece for dental surgery use, but for those the lead will have a separate motor with a slip joint for ease of removal.

Lastly there is a choice of either a foot switch, or a variable speed foot control. Both are optional, as the machine can be switched on and the speed can be varied manually with the foot item disconnected. Dennis.

[enigma]

Another one here who wouldn't advise a Dremel.
I bought one as they are cheap and I thought it would do the job.
They are ok for sanding/polishing but absolutely useless for drilling/burring as they simply don't have the torque needed for slower speeds.

[Nick martin]

Agree with most peoples opinions on the Dremel.

As first glance they seem the ideal, cost effective solution as opposed to a Micro / pendant motor, but they are really only useful for drilling wood and plastics.

For metal they are pretty pointless and you end up risking damaging your piece. If you were to get one, I'd reserve it for polishing duties only.

Nick

[Janie]

Hi there, is it possible to share more info about a pendant drill, I'm interested in having one but don't know what they do exactly and which one would you recommend? Thanks, Jane

[CJ57]

Hi there, is it possible to share more info about a pendant drill, I'm interested in having one but don't know what they do exactly and which one would you recommend? Thanks, Jane

Hi Jane, put in a search for pendants motors , there have been a lot of posts on the forum along the same lines.The Foredom seems to be the motor of choice so you could add that to your search. This was posted a couple of weeks ago http://www.craftsy.com/class/getting-started-with-the-flex-shaft/5085. Also Google and there are lots of videos. If all that fails then there will be someone here to help further :)

[Janie]

Thank you so much Caroline... this really helps me out big time!!! I really want to invest in good quality equipment if I can manage so that it lasts me and does the job. After reading all the information on this post it seems to be the best way to go. . .I almost bought a Dremel a while back, so glad I waited now. Thank you... much appreciation! <3

[CJ57]

Thank you so much Caroline... this really helps me out big time!!! I really want to invest in good quality equipment if I can manage so that it lasts me and does the job. After reading all the information on this post it seems to be the best way to go. . .I almost bought a Dremel a while back, so glad I waited now. Thank you... much appreciation! <3
Glad to be of help. I haven't got one either even though I'm a jeweller of many years, thought I could do without one and times change. This has also been suggested to me as it's more lightweight and easier to handle http://www.woodworkscraftsupplies.co.uk/foredom-k1070-micro-motor-p-739.html

[enigma]

I love my Foredom, can't compare it to a micro motor as haven't used one but a million times better than the Dremel I started with.

[Janie]

What an angel... thank you Caroline!!!!!!! Really kind of you to share... <3

[Janie]

Thank you!!!... this is so reassuring to hear, gives me the confidence to look into buying one... Thank you!!!

[Nick martin]

Foredom all the way for me too. I bought mine from Sutton Tools and its worked flawlessly ever since. Highly recommended, and there are loads of videos on the Foredom website and YouTube to look at.

Cheers,

Nick

[Patstone]

Yes agree with Nick, mines a Foredom too.

[Unhindered]

Sorry I keep asking this but I can't decide which to go for, which Foredom do you all use? I am leaning towards the LX but most people seem to have the SR. I am getting it at the end of this month, i currently have a draper thing that sounds a lot like the dremel you have been describing!

[trialuser]

SR.
There may be someone around Reading who will let you have a play.
If you can be bothered to drive to near Blewbury you can have a go here.
I have also just bought a foredom micromotor, but we want to keep the flexshaft so both my wife and myself have something to use.
I have had the foot speed controller microswitch fail twice now, but both times foredom sent me a replacement foc, great customer service.

[Unhindered]

Thank you :) Do you know what the benefits of the SR are over the LX? from what I understand the LX is higher torque but lower speed? I am wanting to improve my stone setting using whichever one I go for and the LX seems to mention about that more which is why I am looking at it, but really I have no idea!! haha

[Unhindered]

I just got this reply from foredom incase it helps anyone else I will put it here!

Hi Charlotte:
The LX will deliver maximum speed of 5.000 RPM only while the SR delivers 18.000RPM.
If you only work with the hammer handpiece the LX is the right motor for you also if you want to have a dedicated set-up only for stone setting/hammer applications.
You can use the hammer handpiece (rated for max speed of 4,500 RPM) with the SR but you will have to very careful not to use it at higher speeds.
If you use other handpieces like the No. 30, or 20 models for example and need speeds above 5.000 RPM the SR is the right choice.
Hope this helps.,

Miguel


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[LydiaNiz]

I use a proxxon bench drill as I'm a bit dyspraxic and accident prone, and a dremel fortiflex with food pedal. It's all been fine for everything I do, and I love my multichuck!

[coastjewellery]

I started off with a Dremel 3000 and flex shaft and it does do what I need at the moment. Certainly as things progress I can see me replacing it but I currently use it with burrs and for polishing and have no issues. I wouldnt suggest the cordless type as they don't have enough RPM but the corded ones are ok.

[Aurarius]

I started off with a Dremel 3000 and flex shaft and it does do what I need at the moment. Certainly as things progress I can see me replacing it but I currently use it with burrs and for polishing and have no issues.
I have a Dremel 3000 as well. Unfortunately it's minimum 10,000 rpm makes it all but useless for many setting tasks so I now keep it for the rough stuff and use a micromotor for most other purposes.

[silverlining]

I started off with a Dremel 3000 and flex shaft and it does do what I need at the moment. Certainly as things progress I can see me replacing it but I currently use it with burrs and for polishing and have no issues. I wouldnt suggest the cordless type as they don't have enough RPM but the corded ones are ok.

I still use a Dremel 3000 too but use it with a silverline flex drive shaft. Much easier and lighter that way.

I only use it for polishing though.