Giving silver a dull brushed effect

[Caline]

What is the most effective way of doing this?
I've tried with a wire brush but the result looks scratchy and messy.

[josef1]

you could try a scotchbrite pad

[Goldsmith]

Try a glass fibre brush like these;
http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Glass-Pencil-Brush-prcode-999-183
or larger;
http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Glass-Brush-Pen-8mm-Brush-Brush-Is-Held-In-A-Metal-Tip-Holder-prcode-999-183B

James

[CJ57]

Be very careful with the glass fibre brush the fibre gets in your fingers and then don't put them anywhere near your eyes
I use these which are really for pmc but I use them quite a lot now for finishes
http://www.cooksongold.com/category_select.jsp?query=Sponge+Sanding+Pads%2C+S et+Of+3+Grits&queryFromSuggest=true

[Tabby66]

I'd recommend these if you have a pendant motor of some description http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Scotchbrite-Pendant-Wheel-prcode-999-ACR

[Dennis]

There are lots of ways to do this, and some already listed above. Each gives its own particular finish.
The brass brush only works well if used wet and vigorously, with the addition of some some liquid soap. Then there are:

White and yellow radial brushes (radial Disks), use on a flex shaft or similar.
Abrasive blocks and sponges from a DIY store.
Pumice powder, or kitchen scouring powder on a wet tooth brush.
Steel wool.
Pre-polishing compound on a rotary brush or mop. Etc etc etc.

The real problem is that with most of these, you can only get an even effect on a smooth un-cluttered surface. If the surface is complex, then you really need a tumbler with abrasive chips plus or minus an abrasive medium. Sutton Tools have some of these (chips and medium I mean) and might be able to advise.

If you were committed to this in the long term, you might go in for a blasting cabinet, but it needs an additional compressor: http://www.polishingjewellery.co.uk/acatalog/Mini-Sandblast.html

Dennis.

[silverlining]

I use the scotchbrite pendant wheels Tabby has linked to. I love them

[Aurarius]

I use the scotchbrite pendant wheels Tabby has linked to. I love them
You can get them considerably cheaper here (http://www.thepolishingshop.co.uk/acatalog/Dremel_.html).
Among other things these people stock the full range of Menzerna polishes and do a very wide range of mops. I have ordered from them several times and delivery was free and very quick.

[silverlining]

You can get them considerably cheaper here (http://www.thepolishingshop.co.uk/acatalog/Dremel_.html).
Among other things these people stock the full range of Menzerna polishes and do a very wide range of mops. I have ordered from them several times and delivery was free and very quick.

Excellent. Thanks for that!

[Caline]

Great!
Thanks for all your suggestions. I have some steel wool and some yellow radials so will try these first. I'm quite new to texturing my pieces as up until now I've been focusing on as bright and polished as possible!

[Caline]

I'd recommend these if you have a pendant motor of some description http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Scotchbrite-Pendant-Wheel-prcode-999-ACR


Would they work ok with a dremel?

[Tabby66]

You can get them considerably cheaper here (http://www.thepolishingshop.co.uk/acatalog/Dremel_.html).
Among other things these people stock the full range of Menzerna polishes and do a very wide range of mops. I have ordered from them several times and delivery was free and very quick.

I didn't realise they did pendant motor accessories.......I had my bench polisher from here some years ago.......shall be having a mooch around their site!! Thanks :)

[ps_bond]

The polishing jewellery site is the "distilled" version of the full Moleroda site - the idea being that no sane jeweller would want the full lot... :)
Nice bunch, only just up the road from me; they make the abrasive nylon & felt products on site.
Oh, and they do servicing on Saeshin micromotors too (which I hope not to need, but having to go all of 8 miles is not much of a hardship). I know a few jewellers locally who have bought the Strong 209a micromotors; they're finding them a revelation.

[ps_bond]

Would they work ok with a dremel?

Yes, but keep the speed down and don't press too hard. 10k RPM is more than enough - you've got quite a chunk of mass on the end of a thin rod, any off-axis force can cause problems at high revs.

[silverlining]

Would they work ok with a dremel? yep,it's what I use mine with. As Peter says though,keep the speed quite low and don't press hard. You can be quite light with them tbh

[ajda]

I know a few jewellers locally who have bought the Strong 209a micromotors; they're finding them a revelation.
Since we're on the subject, and since I'm always interested in trying to find the "best" (even if I can't afford it yet), what would people recommend when it comes to micromotor/pendant motor/rotary tool systems?

[ps_bond]

Define best?
If you need something with a chuck rather than collets (so you can work with other than 3/32" tools) then a micromotor isn't going to help much. Brushless micromotors are generally higher torque than brushed. Maximum speed is only occasionally an issue (mine will go to 50kRPM, but the handpiece I'm using isn't rated beyond 35k).

[Dennis]

Buy the best micromotor you can afford, with special regard to torque (although torque is rarely disclosed in the description). The second benefit would be to have interchangeable hand pieces, so that you can have a hammer hand piece for setting and riveting.

The preferred foot control should also control the speed and not simply be an on/off switch.

That said, you can buy a perfectly acceptable entry level Marathon micromotor for under £100 from China. I bought one as a stand by and have been using it as my main motor for the last year, because I like the feel of it. The slight lack of torque can be made up by increasing the speed.
beware of buying the angled (contra angle) dental hand piece, because it takes shorter, notched (latch type) burrs.

I have often thought however, that a contra angle handpiece would be much more comfortable for making seats for flush and pave settings. Dennis.

[ajda]

Define best?
Ah, you've got me there... But good points to think about from both of you - thanks.

[ps_bond]

I have often thought however, that a contra angle handpiece would be much more comfortable for making seats for flush and pave settings.

I angle the workpiece rather than the handpiece - makes for better ergonomics.

[Dennis]

I angle the workpiece rather than the handpiece - makes for better ergonomics.

Yes, but to be fair Peter, that is a necessity dictated by the straight handpiece. Dennis.

[Caline]

In relation to the thread topic. I used a wire brush and now the silver has just gone a dull tarnished colour after just a few weeks. Why would this be?

[Dennis]

I presume you meant a brass brush and it should be used wet and soapy. You have probably transferred traces of base metal.

If this is not the case, then you silver has been exposed to a pollutant. the rougher the finish the faster the tarnishing, because of the increased surface area. For storage use anti-tarnish strips or tabs in a closed box or bag. Dennis.