Soldering torches

[Littlewhitefeathers]

I've been trying to solder a silver bangle with a little butane torch. The silver wire I'm using is 3mm thick.
I'm having trouble getting the solder to flow. Using plenty of flux. It just seems to roll in to a ball then refuse to flow or melt further.
Do I need a hotter torch?

[Goldsmith]

Not sure what torch you are using, but it sounds more like your soldering method is wrong if the solder is flowing into a ball, you are heating the solder before the bangle surface is hot enough for the solder to run. You need to heat the whole bangle surface with the torch, avoiding the actual solder until the metal reaches the solder flowing temperature, then when you think it's hot enough play the torch flame at the opposite side of the solder joint as the solder and the solder will run towards the flame.

James

[Littlewhitefeathers]

Not sure what torch you are using, but it sounds more like your soldering method is wrong if the solder is flowing into a ball, you are heating the solder before the bangle surface is hot enough for the solder to run. You need to heat the whole bangle surface with the torch, avoiding the actual solder until the metal reaches the solder flowing temperature, then when you think it's hot enough play the torch flame at the opposite side of the solder joint as the solder and the solder will run towards the flame.

James

Ah I haven't soldered a bracelet before.. Only earring posts on to studs.
It's the little torch that comes with the pmc kit.
I tried heating the whole bangle and avoiding the soldered part for ages but it just didn't seem to be working (not enough heat?)..
Also, I guess I'll need to suspend the bracelet in the air to point the flame underneath the joint? (I just had it flat and the piece of solder resting on top of the join..

[Dennis]

This problem crops up about once a month, because those little hand held re-fillable torches are unable to supply enough heat. What misleads beginners is that the sellers claim a high temperature for the flame, but temperature is not the same as heat.

To solder a bangle made from 3.0mm wire, you need a torch with a bigger burner (the tube the flame comes out of). Otherwise a bangle will loose heat as fast as you can supply it.

As an intermediate measure you might consider a hand held plumbers torch, such as the CampinGaz, preferably with ignition. It also helps to build a cavity with soldering bricks to contain and reflect heat. Dennis

[Goldsmith]

Here is how I would solder a bangle like yours. First I would open the join, file both surfaces to clean them, flux both surfaces, close the bangle and use binding wire or clamps to hold the join together, then lay it flat on a soldering block, add more flux to the join, clean my solder and cut a small square, gently heat the bangle then dip the solder square into some flux and hold it against the outer edge of the bangle and it should stick in place, finally heat the bangle from the inside rotating the flame and don't be tempted to heat the solder direct, when the bangle reaches the solder flow temperature it will flow through the join.
I hope this makes sense, good luck.

This is how I would clamp a bangle for soldering; 7878

James

[Littlewhitefeathers]

Thank you both very much! I will look in to another torch and research some
clamps too:D

[CJ57]

James makes his own clamps which he will no doubt share but binding wire will work in the meantime to hold the edges together

[Littlewhitefeathers]

James makes his own clamps which he will no doubt share but binding wire will work in the meantime to hold the edges together

Ah, thanks!

[Patstone]

I use James's clamps a lot, I dont get on with binding wire as I find it moves as I am tightening it. The first clamps I made were a bit thin, but once I got the proper steel they worked wonders. If you put in the search bar at the top of the page "soldering clamps" I expect the page of all of the shapes James makes will come up as he posted it a while ago for someone else.

[Goldsmith]

Soldering clamps.

7880

James

[CJ57]

It's helpful with binding wire if you put a twist in the middle of the piece of wire before. You wrap it round so that you can adjust the tighteness at both ends then

[dwink23]

Hi Guys, I'm having a similar issue as the OP. I'm trying to solder a stainless steel cufflink finding (round bar, y-shaped that goes to a point at the end) onto a bike chain.

I am using Ezi-Weld 602 Flux (fluoride 34% w/w, Borate 34% w/w) and 1.6mm Silver bearing Acid Core solder but I cannot for the life of me stop the solder balling up. I had a soldering iron to start with, couldn't get it hot enough. Have now got a little butane torch and whilst its heating it, the flux bubbles and then the solder balls up. Not sure if I'm using too much solder, the wrong components, or my technique is wrong?

I've tried heating the components without the flux on it, then applying some flux and solder. Neither way I do it works, but its hard to heat the bike chain / cufflink without getting the flux/solder area.

Would love some feedback on whether the Flux I'm using correctly, or if I'm just doing it wrong.

Thanks!