Cabochon ring

[Caline]

Quick question, how do you shape a bezel setting to fit a silver band ring made of sheet silver? I can't find the answer to this anywhere.

[Dennis]

You make the bezel taller than it would be if intended for a flat surface.

Then mark it by eye with a waterproof pen on both sides and file the fitting edge with a half round file until it begins to look right.
Lastly you find a round stick, or the stem of a doming punch which will have the same external diameter as your ring when wrapped in abrasive paper. Then you can rub your bezel on that for the final adjustment.

If you want to know in advance exactly what is required, just draw a side view of your intended piece on graph paper and you can read off the extra height of bezel needed. Dennis.

[Caline]

You make the bezel taller than it would be if intended for a flat surface.

Then mark it by eye with a waterproof pen on both sides and file the fitting edge with a half round file until it begins to look right.
Lastly you find a round stick, or the stem of a doming punch which will have the same external diameter as your ring when wrapped in abrasive paper. Then you can rub your bezel on that for the final adjustment.

If you want to know in advance exactly what is required, just draw a side view of your intended piece on graph paper and you can read off the extra height of bezel needed. Dennis.

Thanks Dennis. How does the cabochon sit flat inside the bezel when the base of the bezel is the curve of the ring? That's assuming you solder the bezel straight on to the ring?

[Goldsmith]

Caline, This is how I would make the seat for the cabochon in the bezel before shaping it and soldering it to the ring shank. For making a simple cab ring check out this old tutorial I posted a while back; http://www.cooksongold.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6295

75937594

James

[LydiaNiz]

This might help http://lydianiziblian.tumblr.com/post/107006079152/happy-new-yearhttp://lydianiziblian.tumblr.com/post/107006079152/happy-new-year

[Dennis]

Thanks Dennis. How does the cabochon sit flat inside the bezel when the base of the bezel is the curve of the ring? That's assuming you solder the bezel straight on to the ring?

James has shown how to support a jump ring with little spurs.
Or you can solder in a short tube within the tube, prior to shaping the base as before.
Or you can add a jump ring as an afterthought, but cut away the two mid sections of it, so that you have two pieces for the deep parts only. They can be loose and not soldered in.

Lastly if the cab is strong, you can be naughty and just balance it across the centre when setting it. Dennis

[Caline]

So let me get this right. If I'm soldering a bezel on to a wide band ring, do I make a compete bezel cup with a base before I solder it on to the band or do I solder the bezel ring straight on to the ring band?

[Dennis]

The choice is yours.

All the things mentioned can be done before or after soldering the bezel to the ring.

Any addition for creating a level floor need not involve further soldering, but can be left loose.

However if you use a tube within a tube as a bearer it is more convenient to solder it in place so that you can shape the two as one. Dennis.

[Goldsmith]

Caline,
When I made one of these types of rings I did this; Made a high bezel to fit the stone, then soldered in a seat for the stone in the bezel leaving enough metal to rub over the stone, made the ring shank slightly wider than the bezel, filed the bezel with a half round file to fit onto the ring shank, soldered the bezel to the ring shank holding it in place with soldering clamps, after soldering I filed everything to shape, then rough polished the whole ring before setting the stone, finally I filed the rub over part of setting to make it level and also a slight taper on the metal before rubbing over the setting, then I will carefully file around the rub over to remove any marks before a final polishing.

I hope this makes sense.

James

James