Newbie Needing Help Please

[LaurieKaye]

Hi, I just joined this forum and hope someone can help me. I have no jewellery making experience. I embroider, sew, knit and paint. I have a laser cutter/engraver that I use to cut fabric I use in my sewing and embroidery projects. I would like to use my laser to cut and engrave on an acrylic sheet and then form the piece into a cuff bracelet. I need help with sizing. The acrylic I will be using is about 1/4" thick and the bracelet will be about 1.50" wide. How long should the flat piece of acrylic be before it is made into a circular form? Once you form the circle how much open space should there be between the ends of the bracelet (the opening where you would put the bracelet on your wrist)? What should the diameter and circumference be? I am assuming there are average numbers used for a woman's size small medium and large? I know this is a lot of questions and I really appreciate any help that you can give me. I have been thinking about this idea I have for over a year and now I really want to try it. Thank you very much!
Laurie

[CJ57]

Hi Laurie, welcome to the forum.
You might want to read through this thread posted a few weeks ago, the sizing shouldn't be much different and should give you an idea. http://www.cooksongold.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6574&highlight=Bangle+sizing
It's always worth putting it into the search and you'd be amazed at what comes up:)

[LaurieKaye]

Thank you Caroline for your response. I actually saw the thread you suggested I look at and I wrote down Caroleallen's cuff measurements. I am assuming her measurements are the length I would cut my acrylic? Where I get confused is after I cut the acrylic what diameter and circumference would I use for 5.5" Small, 6" Med, and 6.5" Large? Also what would the open gap measurement be? Would this be the same on all three sizes?
Thank you,
Laurie

[josef1]

Maybe you could make template out of card and measure them

[enigma]

if you do make one up in card make sure you allow extra length for the thickness of the material the bangle is to be made from- inside diameter plus thickness of material X2 will give outside diameter .

[CJ57]

If it has a gap then then the length is much more variable. You would want a gap wide enough for the wrist to slide in sideways 1/2 in to 3/4 in which would be the same on all sizes. 1/4in thick is quite meaty, a bangle mandrel would be useful, you can get them in either wood or metal. I take it you will have to form the bangle by heat, I used to put my perspex in the oven for a short time but I would imagine there is a proper way to do this?:)
perhaps you could practice in another material as has been mentioned, even corrugated cardboard which would be about the right thickness but malleable
I haven't found a standard size of wrist, I have a tiny wrist and some of my customers have manly wrists so I would play about with other materials until you find a sizing that looks right for the materials used.
Sorry this seems a bit random but am typing my thoughts as they come into my head before I forget!

[Dennis]

Where I get confused is after I cut the acrylic what diameter and circumference would I use for 5.5" Small, 6" Med, and 6.5" Large? Also what would the open gap measurement be? Would this be the same on all three sizes?
Thank you,
Laurie

Here are several more articleas about cuff sizes: https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=Size+chart+for+arm+cuff&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&gws_rd=cr&ei=jvDKVJXVFoz_UPjxgogD#q=Size+chart+for+jewellery +cuff

Carole's measurements will be the length of material required. The gap depends on the wrist thickness, but also on the flexibility of the material, so an inch give or take.
A wooden oval bangle mandrel is the less expensive option and quite durable. This will allow you to shape them , leaving the gap. Dennis.

[caroleallen]

It also depends on how flexible your material is. Metal will flex a bit but I imagine that thickness of perspex won't. I think the only way is to experiment. Once you've worked it out, I think I would get three mandrels (small, medium and large) made out of something like self hardening clay or by a wood turner. They only need to be a few inches long. That way you won't have the slope of a normal mandrel to contend with.

[CJ57]

It also depends on how flexible your material is. Metal will flex a bit but I imagine that thickness of perspex won't. I think the only way is to experiment. Once you've worked it out, I think I would get three mandrels (small, medium and large) made out of something like self hardening clay or by a wood turner. They only need to be a few inches long. That way you won't have the slope of a normal mandrel to contend with.

That's a great idea about the mandrels, I bought a wooden oval and round and having the taper is a real pain. I still go back to my rolling pin

[Dennis]

I feel diffident in giving my opinion, as I don't wear cuffs myself and Carole has made more cuffs than I have had hot dinners.

So when Carole and Caroline agree, I should probably keep stum.

However, I have always thought that as arms taper towards the wrist it would be beneficial, or at least not do any harm to have a slight taper in the cuff too? Dennis.

[CJ57]

I feel diffident in giving my opinion, as I don't wear cuffs myself and Carole has made more cuffs than I have had hot dinners.

So when Carole and Caroline agree, I should probably keep stum.

However, I have always thought that as arms taper towards the wrist it would be beneficial, or at least not do any harm to have a slight taper in the cuff too? Dennis.

You would think that would be the case Dennis but taking a closer look at my wrist it's about 3 ins up before the forearm starts to taper out and a lot of women like to wear them quite low on the wrist sitting on the top of the hand.
I find them quite difficult to wear unless they are made to measure, I have a couple of nice presents that I can't wear because they look lovely from the front but the moment you turn your wrist or move then it gets out of kilter

[LydiaNiz]

I always assumed the same about the taper. Will try the level approach from now on.