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enigma
23-01-2015, 11:39 PM
I have a bad habit of picking out stones that I like and deciding I can figure out how to set them later.
The latest is a 4mm by 2mm marquise Alexandrite :-O
I mean, really , what was I thinking?
I now have an order for a ring with it set in rose gold so I got it out to look at it and am now wondering how on earth I am supposed to set it, its teeny!
Ideas on a postcard please …..

Dennis
24-01-2015, 02:52 AM
It's actually easy to make a rub down collet, now you've got a mill Sara, because you can roll it down from high carat wire, the higher the better. It is so slender the colour won't notice, but reduce very slowly, so as to keep it straight. Try as you might it will be a little curved, but that's good, because you will have a tapered collet. That means no bearer needed.

1.0mm round will roll down to 1.5 x 0.4mm
1.5mm round will roll down to 2.0 x 0.5mm
2.0x1.0 rectangular will roll down to 2.2 x 0.5mm

Personally I would roll down 1.0mm wire to be just about 0.25mm thick. Then solder two pieces at one end, surround the stone and pinch together at the other end with tweezers, drop out the stone and solder again.

The stone can be stuck upside down with BluTack to steady it. What carat? probably22ct for softness. Practice with copper first. Dennis.

enigma
24-01-2015, 10:14 AM
You are a star Dennis thank you!
It hadn't occurred to me to use two lengths that way but of course that will be much easier than trying to bend it around the end on a fragile stone! #-o
I hadn't thought of rolling down wire either, was going to use the 18ct 0.5mm sheet and roll that down but 22ct wire sounds a very good idea thanks!

Dennis
24-01-2015, 02:05 PM
You probably know this Sara, but if you prefer straight bezel, you just anneal, put one end in a vice and pull with pliers. However doing this will make it slightly thinner and narrower.

I can also recommend my mini light box, for judging the fit. Essentially it consists of a cheap battery operated LED cupboard light, with some white tape to dim the brightness, covered by a clear plastic lid or box to give a level surface.

enigma
24-01-2015, 11:37 PM
Thats a great idea Dennis thank you!
Ive made it but yet to solder it on and do final shaping so keeping my fingers crossed now!

enigma
31-01-2015, 04:20 PM
Finished! and thanks Dennis, its so great to have you around to advise :ta:
7307

Tabby66
31-01-2015, 05:27 PM
very nice Sarah :)

Nick martin
31-01-2015, 08:04 PM
Nifty bit of setting there Sarah :)

LydiaNiz
31-01-2015, 10:02 PM
Ooh pretty! Nice job!

enigma
31-01-2015, 10:14 PM
Thanks very much Tabby, Nick and Lydia! Im certainly relieved to have got it done :ta:

Dennis
01-02-2015, 08:41 AM
Finished! and thanks Dennis, its so great to have you around to advise :ta:
7307

Well it's far easier to give advice than to actually do it. You got on with it Sarah and its a beautiful ring. Dennis.

Patstone
02-02-2015, 12:38 AM
Yes it is beautiful Sarah. Well done. Did you do it in two pieces after all.?

Wallace
02-02-2015, 12:54 AM
great achievement, well done Sarah.

enigma
02-02-2015, 10:46 AM
Thank you Dennis, it really is lovely having you around for advice.

Thanks Pat and Wallace !
Pat, I didn't in the end, I was going to and then for some reason I decided to see how easily it would bend around and it actually went round really nicely so I went with that.
I used the 18ct rolled down to about 0.25 in the end as I had some of that here.
I was terrified the whole time the stone would chip on the ends as I was setting it though as Ive chipped an oval Alexandrite before just with finger pressure against a bezel! I did have a spare one just in case lol

AndrewCampbell
26-06-2015, 06:47 AM
Why not take pictures and write notes about the stones that you like instead? Saves you a fair bit of money and heart ache if you can't get the piece set in the right way that you want! Especially if you're going to reset antique jewellery, it's a good idea to hold off until you can actually guarantee the work can be done otherwise you might get quite disappointed in the end.

enigma
28-06-2015, 08:52 PM
Im not sure what you are talking about Andrew?
I do commissions not antique repairs?
No money loss or heartache here thanks :)