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View Full Version : how to set Baguette Facet stones



philongold
07-01-2015, 06:36 AM
Hello again, philongold here again.

I have just bought 5 Baguette cut, facet Tourmalines but am not sure how to set them.

I have a couple of designs in my head for a rings, and I sort-of-know what I would like to do with one of the stones at least - but I don't know the best way to achieve this.

I would like to set the stone down into the metal (I think I will do it in silver to start with) and either do a standard 'Bezel' setting, which I can do easily - or what I would like to have a go at is, something like a gypsy setting, I have also hear this type of setting called a 'rub-over' setting - this is the type of setting I don't really know to do! (although I have heard bezel settings called rub over setting by some).

I can do a gypsy setting using a round stone - that's quite easy because nearly all the work is done using burs. BUT - I recon a rectangular stone is a different thing all together. If I use a bur to cut the hole out for the stone and make one little slip - all my work could be wrecked!

Has anyone got any ideas? OR -maybe I should send the finished ring to a setter and have to done properly - can anyone recommend a good setter?

Cheers everyone.

Phil (philongold@gmail.com) :ta:

ps_bond
07-01-2015, 06:53 AM
You've seen this (http://www.cooksongold.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6282&highlight=curved)?
Depends on the size of the stones as to whether it's achievable. Channel setting with the long axis of the stone running radially might work.

If you want to flush set fancy stones, the setting will have to be carved with scorpers. Scribe layout lines on the surface, drill what you can and carve a tapered hole progressively, checking fit as you go.

enigma
07-01-2015, 09:41 AM
Could you cast it?

Gemsetterchris
07-01-2015, 10:38 AM
Gypsy set baquette tourmalines sounds like trouble.:-p
Bezel,gypsy,channel are all basically rubover setting, there are after all only 3 main types the others being claw & bead (grain).

Your best bet is to pierce out your rectangles given your past skills..then just cut a bearing for the girdle & drill your corners abit till it fits snug & burnish carefully...or make a really low bezel for it.
Bear in mind the curve if any as Peter pointed out, but I guess you probably know all that anyway.

You could consider a Roman setting, cut around your stone with a graver to form a wall to push over..

ps_bond
07-01-2015, 06:59 PM
John daniels is the best diamond setter I no, top quality work and reasonable prices Have a look

Hmm. Both you and he have the same grasp of English, you've spammed pretty much the same text here on 3 posts and frankly I'm not amused.
If you're going to actually contribute, fine - if all you're going to do is post adverts for yourself then your stay will be a short one.

Gemsetterchris
08-01-2015, 07:31 AM
Hmm. Both you and he have the same grasp of English, you've spammed pretty much the same text here on 3 posts and frankly I'm not amused.
If you're going to actually contribute, fine - if all your going to do is post adverts for yourself then your stay will be a short one.

:D I noticed that, there is a place for self promotion without pretending to be a customer of yourself.
Shame, as your work looks quite neat :thumbup: just the text needs some help.

philongold
08-01-2015, 07:31 AM
Firstly - MANY thanks to all that have answered my latest question. I didn't think I had any replies as nothing came to my email in-box. I must have forgotten to tick the right box.

Anyway - the stones are very small - around 4 mm x 2 mm.

No I can't cast as I have no casting stuff and I have only ever done a bit of casting ever.

ps_bond - a looked at the CAD you put up. VERY skillful I must say. If I had round stones it would be a lot easier -I just saw these tourmalines and the price was good (I thought) so I bought them.

I think in the end I have only a few choices - 1. cut out an area for the stone to sit in with a drill. gravers or scorpers as Gemsetterchris said or 2. Make a tiny bezel an solder it in place making sure I have cut out enough space for the stone.

Or maybe, I should just send it to gemsetterchris lol.

Cheers guys and keep the info flooding in.

Phil (philongold@gmail.com)

Gemsetterchris
08-01-2015, 07:45 AM
Or maybe, I should just send it to gemsetterchris lol.

Phil (philongold@gmail.com)

:eek: ! Ha ha.

enigma
08-01-2015, 09:59 AM
I may get told off for this as its probably frowned upon by the professionals but if I wanted to flush set a stone that wasn't round I would use a wire bezel after cutting out for it to cover any imperfections in the edges :-"
Of course if you are able to make the cut absolutely perfect then you wouldn't need to but personally I really struggled doing one for an oval and the wire surround neatens things up whilst still keeping a low profile which is what a lot of my customers want as the stone is less vulnerable when they are playing with their horses lol.
I use 0.7mm wire.
This is one I did 7210

Gemsetterchris
08-01-2015, 10:23 AM
There are a lot of things that are do-able, but that doesn't necessarily mean they are good idea...especially rings..fancy as some look, they are asking for trouble.

enigma
08-01-2015, 10:40 AM
Could you expand on that Chris?
as you know Im a complete novice so I shan't be offended :)

ps_bond
08-01-2015, 11:10 AM
Nice big tanzanites in claw settings, for example.

Gemsetterchris
08-01-2015, 11:11 AM
Could you expand on that Chris?
as you know Im a complete novice so I shan't be offended :)

As you all know, rings generally take a lot of damage, so.. I see a lot of this delicate micro pave, certain gems set nicely without considering the fact they'll be damaged in no time ect ect even though they look great in their new box...I like your thinking of using wire as a barrier, nothing wrong with that if it helps.
Sometimes wonder what designers are thinking (or not)?
When it comes to other items, It's not such a problem.

Customers lifestyle obviously plays a big role, so ok for some lucky people but not the masses..& I don't think most are educated by jewellers when buying stuff so they make a wise choice to suit them.

I've also seen great & finely shaded engraving on rings..doesn't last long unless unworn or on steel :D

enigma
08-01-2015, 12:03 PM
I see what you mean, thanks for taking the time to explain :)

I did claw set a little Tanzanite Peter (3.5mm) hope it doesn't come back and bite me in the ass :-O
Good to have your thought guys and I agree its often not given enough consideration , including by myself.
I like diamonds best, even I haven't got any of those in my bucket of shame LOL

Gemsetterchris
08-01-2015, 12:19 PM
When you get professional manfacturers making & selling delicate designs to the general public & then wonder why there are problems...you know they always hassle the stone setter first as if it was their problem :rolleyes:

They'll say "but the pendants & earrings are fine"...blind to the obvious.

If on the other hand you point out potential problems in advance, they don't come as a suprise & are more generally expected/accepted.

johnmoto
09-01-2015, 01:47 AM
I would scribe around the stone then drill 2 holes top and bottom then out down your corners then cut the box out with a thin sharp flat scorper then look how thick the girth is and choose a ball fraze that thickness not to deep just enough so the stone clips in if you do this correctly you should be able to turn the piece up side down bang it and the stone should stay in there, next step with a thin flat scorper burnish from the inside of the ledge this will cleanly and jently put metal onto the stone no mess no hammering very clean and secure.
Hope this helps

johnmoto
09-01-2015, 02:05 AM
:D I noticed that, there is a place for self promotion without pretending to be a customer of yourself.
Shame, as your work looks quite neat :thumbup: just the text needs some help.

That's for the compliment befor I looked at this post . I had gave my suggestion for setting your baguettes stones , so I have contributed
Bet it's cold in Finland