Technical books

[Fine Jewellery and Art]

Hi. As you may know I am in my self-appointed ‘apprenticeship’ and in need of more information at the moment. Books that I have managed to collect so far, video courses and information obtained from the internet all seem to cover the basics rather well but is VERY skimpy on technical detail on anything more than plain rings, common run of the mill settings and some information on casting.
I have gone through all of this creating templates (for 21 different cones for example) for various flat-sheet layouts and practiced all the basics. I saw reasonably well, can solder a 4 prong setting made of .5mm wire with hard solder, figured out how to mostly prevent firescale and are now practicing with gravers.
My question is regarding guidance on books containing more advanced techniques with, if possible, the mathematical or geometric information included. I am from a technical background and feel much more comfortable once I can ‘calculate’ a form. I can then do various adjustments, practice making the actual forms and create templates that will allow much faster production once I get to the point where I can seriously think about making jewellery.
From following the forum it is clear that a number of people have a wealth of knowledge, ‘tricks’, capabilities and hands-on experience. At the moment, however, it would seem to me that all this knowledge are going to be lost if it cannot be found recorded clearly somewhere and if the people I am talking about do not plan to record all their knowledge.
Are there detailed books available on advanced techniques/methods or are this seen as trade secrets and everyone must ‘reinvent the wheel’ over and over?

Frans

[Dennis]

Yes you are right, the subject is vast and unless you can be apprenticed to a master, or attend a short course by a world class tutor, you are fated to reinvent the wheel over and over. However there are advanced books such as:

Jewellery Concepts and Technology, by Oppi Untracht, which contains valuable formulae and tables.
Creative Stone Setting, by John Cogswell.
and slim specialist volumes such as Hinges and Hinge based catches for Jewelers and Goldsmiths, By Charles Lewton-Brain.

And of course there are forums such as Ganoksin. But I think the future for realising your designs is with computer asisted technology. Dennis.

[Wallace]

I think there is still a call for the more traditional way of doing things. Art is in the eye of the beholder and the creator has some options too.

Books can vary - I am still doing my own apprenticeship with advice and support from the books, forum, occasional class and experiments. As Dennis quite rightly points out that there are many pitfalls of learning independently - thankfully this is a good forum for many support mechanisms, advice, signposting and sometimes a good old moan or giggle.


Tim McCreight's 'Complete Metalsmith' has been a really useful book that gives support for helping with calculations and pointers for further options.

[Goldsmith]

Frans, there are a few masterclass DVDs available from the Goldsmith's Company, you may like to see; http://www.thegoldsmiths.co.uk/library/technical-library/masterclass-dvds/

James

[Fine Jewellery and Art]

Hi. Sorry for the belated reply, Tapatalk does not want to talk to this forum for some reason.
Thanks Dennis. I have already worked through John Cogswell’s Creative stone setting and I will see if I can find the book by Charles Lewton-Brain. I think I have viewed every video on Ganoskin at least once and read many of the published tips and methods. I also read each and every post on this forum and I do think I am making progress.
Hi Wallace. I absolutely agree with the traditional way. I can happily get a CAD program and a metal 3D printer and produce amazing pieces. If I do this, however, I do not think I can call myself a Jeweller. In a previous post Dennis (I think) pointed out that once you know and understand the basics you can turn to technology. Anyway, I am in a time consuming fulltime occupation and I have no other option than learning this trade independently.
James, I will go have a look at the link you supplied – thanks.
Now I will go finish the pattern I made for a hollow ring.

Frans

[CJ57]

If you want theory I would recommend The Theory & Practice of Goldsmithing by Erhard Brepohl. I bought mine from Amazon.com rather than UK which still worked out cheaper with postage but I haven't checked recently