stone setting round a ring

[ladybug]

Hi...I know how to make a setting for a cabouchon, however I am at a loss as to how to male a stone set that will sit flush round the ring? I have made a thick ring and want to solder set stone onto it but so it goes aroind the round contours and sits flush rather than having gaps, what is the trick to this? Thanks

[Dennis]

Hi ladybug,

Your question is not entirely clear to me. For instance where does soldering come into it? If you are asking how to flush set stones, then I have put key words into our search box (top right) and the results are here:

http://www.cooksongold.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5117&highlight=flush+setting.

In general, faceted stones are used and the metal must be about as thick as the distance from table (flat top) to culet (pointy bottom). If the point pokes through, it can be uncomfortable in a ring for instance and the stone is vulnerable to being pushed out with time.

When practicing, use cheap stones, such a CZs and copper for the metal. Try a flat piece of metal in the first place, because it becomes more difficult with curves,
Dennis.

[ladybug]

Thank you for the response. Its quite difficult to explain but I have my wide ring, ordinarily I would solder my bezel stone set on and there would be a gap to either side...I am trying to solder the bezel onto the ring but in such a way that it will curve round and not have gaps either side so it becomes part of the ring and doesnt just sit onto it? I wish I could post a picture of one so you could see what I mean then maybe able to help me with how it is achieved : )

[josef1]

I would make the bezel then file the bottom of it so it fits snug onto the ring with no gaps,then solder it to the ring, then clean up and set the stone

[Tabby66]

I would make the bezel then file the bottom of it so it fits snug onto the ring with no gaps,then solder it to the ring, then clean up and set the stone

Hi Ladybug,
I think Josef's suggestion may well be your solution, you need to file a half-round into the bottom of your bezel, to match the shape/size of your ring.
Tabby xx

[ladybug]

Thank you...what do you mean by half round? I have made the bezel but the moment I try to fit it round the ring it distorts to an oval : (

[Dennis]

I have made the bezel but the moment I try to fit it round the ring it distorts to an oval : (

OK, the way I understand it now, you have made a tube setting for a round stone, but it is soft, and distorts as you try to file it to fit your ring. Is that right?

Well, you can make a tube within the tube to strengthen it, push it down to let the stone sit on it at the right level and tack it in with a little solder.

Now you will have a stronger tube, but you still need to check it stays round by pushing a round mandrel in from time to time.

To shape the bottom to fit the ring, file it near enough, using a half round file. Then perfect it by wrapping some sandpaper around a suitably sized rod, so that you have a tool the same diameter as the ring. you can rub the base of your setting on that to a good fit for soldering.

[ladybug]

Not entirely...I have made a ring. The bezel setting is the same width of the ring so I am trying to solder it on so it has no gaps either side and kind of moulds on the contours of the ring but if I try to shape it round it distorts

[mizgeorge]

I think this is one where a picture would be really helpful! Or even a picture of what it is you're trying to achieve. I realise you can't post links yet, but you should be able to add to your album or post a spelled out link if necessary.

I suspect that what you're making may be very difficult if you're using bezel strip. It may be better to make your own from slightly heavier sheet cut to size, which will distort a lot less when you try to file or manipulate it. When you're happy with the setting, file a nice bevel edge, which will be easy to rub over the stone when you come to set it.

[donnie]

Hi Ladybug, would it be acceptable to cut the ring and fit the bezel mount into the ring solder each side leaving no gaps

DONNIE

www.silver-n-things.co.uk

[Dennis]

Your idea would work just as well donnie, but the cut ends would still have to be hollowed to fit the collet, so the problem of fitting it won't really go away.

In addition, if the ring is just the right size, cutting and filing will most likely disrupt it, so adding a new problem. Dennis.

[Goldsmith]

Photos always make suggestions easier, as we are all tying to imagine what you are trying to do,what is the type of setting you are making.
Is the stone oval or round, anything like these perhaps:
The oval stone stone ring has a tube soldered under the bezel setting setting to fill the gap and the round stone has a longer bezel setting filed half round to fit the ring shank.

5353

James

[theresa]

or, file a flat on the ring itself as it is thick, then the bezel should sit flat.

[ladybug]

Thank you everyone, I am still trying to work it out : ) I did think about filing a flat area but I am not sure this will work as then there will be a flat side? I have attached a photo, hope this helps???5354

[Dennis]

The problem is more or less as I visualised and replied in my second post. The only difference is that you have used a strip of hammered metal for the ring shank. In any case, the base of the tube setting has to be made to fit your ring. Seeing it now, I would forget about strengthening this setting and just start again.

What you have, could also be a little short (not tall enough). If so, make a new taller setting, but use thicker material so that it keeps its shape.

I would suggest like mizgeorge, cutting it from fine silver sheet rather than bezel strip, and using 0.5mm thickness, which will resist bending while filing. I explained a way to fit it above.

You still need to be gentle and restore the roundness from time to time. Then when setting, as mizgeorge also mentioned above, bevel the top edge for a neat finish.

The second problem is that the hammered texture of the ring might interfere with a good fit, but if you mark the circle where the setting is to go, you can file down any large bumps slightly. Once there are only a few tiny gaps, plenty of solder placed all round inside will fill them when heated.

Goldsmith has shown you the ideal finish, but of course he started with a smooth ring. Denns.

[ladybug]

Thank you for all of your help, that's brilliant, I get it now : )

[Dennis]

I hope it goes smoothly now, but have added this note which might provide extra help. For an example I have drawn a cross section of a ring, on 1mm graph paper, but when you click on it you will see it magnified.

The outer diameter if the ring I used is 22mm. The diameter of the cabochon is 10mm. For this example, the setting only needs to be about 1.5mm longer on each side after fitting to the ring and it should be tall enough just to grip the stone. If it is too tall, it will not set neatly.

You will also see that there is a gap on either side underneath the stone. You can manage to cope with that, but the stone will be steadier for setting if you put short pieces of wire on each side underneath the stone (1mm wire would do here).They do not have to be soldered in.

Lastly, a cone of BluTack is an easy way to lift the stone into place.To avoid the stone getting stuck before you are ready to set it, lay a piece of dental floss (from the chemist) across the bottom, with long ends protruding. Then you will have something to yank it out with. Regards, Dennis.