How do you bend your rings?

[eirish]

I've finally gotten around to buying a ring mandrel so I can make rings properly (the last one was rounded up on a punch that came with my wooden dapping block!). Now I'm trying to figure out the best way to form the ring before soldering shut. I've seen people use ring-bending pliers, a mallet and mandrel, a swage block... So I thought I'd ask here what you all do and why it works well before I order still more tools. Thanks!

[Goldsmith]

I use half round pliers to bend the ring shank into shape, then I clean the shank joint, bind it together with binding wire and then solder it together with hard solder. After pickling I clean up the solder joint with a file and paper, then finally use a ring mandrel and a mallet or hammer to tap the shank perfectly round.

James

[silken]

If necessary, I anneal the wire first then use a pair of half round pliers to make the ring into an odd oval sort of shape and get the two ends completely flush although a lot of people like to do it differently. I solder, pickle, clean it up then use a plain steel ring mandrel and mallet to get it to the right shape. I try not to do too much hammering so as not to stretch the ring. For sizing, I use a Wheatsheaf mandrel but for general shaping, any old unmarked/plain steel mandrel is good :)

[Dennis]

Traditionally people use ring pliers as mentioned above they have one flat beak and one rounded beak. The muscle is provided by you. One or both beaks can also be covered in polythene tubing to save marking your metal.

My life took a turn for the better when I bought this ring bending tool shown below. It will not only bend stout wires, but also help you to close the join before soldering. You are not warned that you also need a narrow leather strap over the moving jaws to avoid marking the outer surface of the ring.

When bending up stout wires it is best to curve the ends first and the centre last.

Against tradition, I don't bash my rings on a mandrel, but make them a little smaller than needed and then stretch them to size on a ring stretcher, which which is fast, accurate and preserves the finish. Dennis

[silken]

Dennis, oh how I long for a good upright ring stretcher! I only have a cheapo one from eBay and I'm too scared to use it because, well, on the packet it was called a "Ring Stracher"...

[Tabby66]

Large half round pliers, the pressure on the metal to create the bend is exerted by you, not the pliers, they just hold the metal as you move it through the jaws to create a circle, I saw through both ends of the ring and file up as necessary to ensure a complete match, once soldered, I tidy up any solder and then true up on a mandrel (preferabley to size too!!).

Emily....don't do it!! Or at least check it out on a plain band or 2 that you can afford to scrap.........in my experience a good upright ring stretcher comes at a price (one which I can't afford, but have had access too!!) and cheaper imports just do not compare.....off shape, ridging (spelling??), demolishing......

[eirish]

Interesting, sounds like a majority vote for the ring-bending pliers. I guess I'll put 'em on the shopping list. :)

Emily, I'd be scared of something called a "Ring Stracher" too! Sounds painful.

[silken]

Haha! I know, it sounds like some sort of torture device. Either way, it is staying safely stashed away in my tool graveyard. The name "ring stracher" really doesn't inspire much confidence! ;)

[glowpear]

Hi there Eirish,

I do the half round plier thing as described by Goldsmith but I find a few small things make a bit of difference for me - firstly to bend the ring into a D-shape makes soldering easier. The soldered bit is in the middle of the straight line of the D, as soldering on a curve holds much more room for slippage and error, I find. It's much easier to line up two straight bits of metal than two shaped bits on a curve. Especially with shaped or thicker wire. When the D is nicely soldered together you just tap it on a mandrel into shape. Secondly I am a total pansy and tend to make marks with my huffing and puffing to bend thicker wire so like Dennis I find soft kid leather between the pliers a must (I got a free off cut from a tailor). I am so lazy with filing off scratches so I really try to not make any in the first place. Also I put the ring in a vice (with leather between the ring and the vice) and tap with a hammer into the D shape where possible, as you don't need much muscle for that and it creates a very snug fit. You may not be as puny as me though! Lastly, keeping the metal well annealed and soft throughout makes the metal nicer to handle and easier to bend. Good luck.

[Patstone]

That looks a handy set of tools Dennis, I may invest in the ring bending tool as I struggle to bend 4mm round wire into a ring shape, I love your ring stretcher too but out of my price range I expect.



Traditionally people use ring pliers as mentioned above they have one flat beak and one rounded beak. The muscle is provided by you. One or both beaks can also be covered in polythene tubing to save marking your metal.

My life took a turn for the better when I bought this ring bending tool shown below. It will not only bend stout wires, but also help you to close the join before soldering. You are not warned that you also need a narrow leather strap over the moving jaws to avoid marking the outer surface of the ring.

When bending up stout wires it is best to curve the ends first and the centre last.

Against tradition, I don't bash my rings on a mandrel, but make them a little smaller than needed and then stretch them to size on a ring stretcher, which which is fast, accurate and preserves the finish. Dennis

[Tabby66]

I'm fairly sure I have a pair of the ring bending pliers which I don't use, (infact, they've only been used 2-3 times, since I was then taught (and am still trying perfect!!) to use the half rounds (which I do prefer)!!
Will check tomorrow..............

[contrarymary]

Dennis, where can I buy a ring bending tool? I have ring pliers, but don't have the hand strength to cope with heavier stock. I'm UK based.

[Dennis]

Sorry the only one I can find is here at Cooksons, and it's about twice the price I paid, but about ten years ago:
http://www.cooksongold.com/category_select.jsp?query=997+3000. Don't forget it needs a leather strap to protect the outer surface of the ring.

I have also seen a horizontal, bench mounted version with a stepped barrel and a lever, which might be less pricy. Dennis.

[Tabby66]

Those are the ring bending pliers that I have and don't use, (sorry, I had said I'd check in March and then forgot!!). They'd happily go to a new home for £100 + postage.....as I previously said, I've only used them less than a handful of times.
Please PM me if you're interested.

Tabby

[ps_bond]

I have a set of those too; apart from being a bit iffy at bending short ends, they're brilliant to use IMO. The horizontal shank bender Dennis describes is something I'd like to add to my collection - if I can find one that isn't *too* extortionate (and they do do short ends too).

[Dennis]

I have a set of those too; apart from being a bit iffy at bending short ends.

Well you need between 50 and 60mm of wire for a ring, and provided you bend both ends first and the centre last, they will do it with ease. Dennis.

[ps_bond]

The distance between the centre fulcrum and the hardened steel contacts on mine means that you can't bend tight radii with it at the ends. Looks the same as the Cooksons, but the devil may be in the detail.

[2753tony]

on eBay there are some plier that to me looking the same Dennis show in pic at less than half of the price mentioned on here.
worth have a look... ;)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300616958053

[Wallace]

on eBay there are some plier that to me looking the same Dennis show in pic at less than half of the price mentioned on here.
worth have a look... ;)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300616958053

With Taxes of £7.73 and post office handling fee of £8.00 that will be about £54.89 (At the moment, so still comes under Cookies Costs.) Bargain!

I use mine all the time. Like Dennis says, bend the ends first and then work the rest of the metal, ahem, around it!

How to work the taxes..... http://www.dutycalculator.com/new-import-duty-and-tax-calculation/

[mizgeorge]

However, the ones from Cookies are Swiss made, and you can be pretty sure the ebay version are made in Pakistan, so will be inferior in terms of materials and engineering.

You pays your money etc...

[Wallace]

However, the ones from Cookies are Swiss made, and you can be pretty sure the ebay version are made in Pakistan, so will be inferior in terms of materials and engineering.

You pays your money etc...
I know...... I have one of both.... Cheaper came second, and, I use it often. Leather it up and it is fine. I did get my cheaper one as a present, but knew it was of less quality, however, it does work well. If one is on a budget, one has to go for what one can afford - it helps if one can get some sort of recommendation. They work fine, just need to check the screws on them occasionally.

[caroleallen]

I've got the Cookies one and it works well.

[Patstone]

Assuming that the one in Canada is the same one that Wallace has, what is the thickest silver wire it will bend, as I sometimes make rings quite thick and struggle not to get marks on it then spend the next four hours trying to sand/file the marks out. At £133 plus Vat from Cookies, it is out of my price range, but a third of that price from abroad is in with a chance, if it works on say 4mm thick.

[Wallace]

Assuming that the one in Canada is the same one that Wallace has, what is the thickest silver wire it will bend, as I sometimes make rings quite thick and struggle not to get marks on it then spend the next four hours trying to sand/file the marks out. At £133 plus Vat from Cookies, it is out of my price range, but a third of that price from abroad is in with a chance, if it works on say 4mm thick.

Hi Pat,

I have never gone thicker than 3mm, but any bending was done after annealing anyway. the 3mm on both pliers, bends without me worrying about it. I have leather on the lower part of the jaws on both to reduce marks.

It may be worth hearing if anyone else has any and see if they have tried thicker.