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Nick martin
16-03-2013, 03:46 PM
Afternoon everyone. I have a few ( what are probably basic ) stone setting questions that I'd appreciate being helped out on if possible?

I'm going to cast two silver pendants and wish to 'flush set' a gemstone in each. One a small diamond, the other a small ameythst.

I have read several articles on the internet as well as viewing a couple of videos, but there seems to be a lot of variation in how things are done, as in its a subjective subject right?

Heres my questions...

If I want for example to 'flush set' a 5mm amythest stone, do I:

1. Drill a pilot hole using a smaller standard straight drill bit ( say 2mm? )

2. Then drill into the same hole using a 'bud burr' ( 5mm as per the stone or smaller? )

3. Finally use a 5mm 'stone setting burr' for the last drilled hole in order to place the stone into?

Then...

In order to secure the stone, what tool do I use as I'm confused about gravers and burnishing tools!

I have this one already and was hoping to use it to push the metal into the area surrounding the gem or is there a better tool for the job?

http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Curved-Slim-Burnisher-Slim-Blade-With-Handle-prcode-999-CAN

I realise I'm asking what are probably a lot of basic questions here but I'm finding it difficult to find which was is best.

Thanks as always,

Nick

Patstone
16-03-2013, 08:04 PM
Using a bearing cutter to cut a rim inside the hole so the stone snaps in, so using a flex shaft is an easier option than using a graver in my opinion. I only started setting gemstones myself about 3 months ago, but after you drill the hole, clean off the underside with a ball burr as it makes it look better and its easier to do it before setting the stone. To secure the stone, I use a broken burr in a wooden handle, sharpened to a dull point to rub around the stone, firstly at an angle then when you have the silver pushed over, use the burr upright to finish off. I think I am correct in this, but there is a video on You Tube that shows how. I am sure someone here will correct me if I am wrong.

SilverBouillon
17-03-2013, 08:57 AM
Nick,
I found this video very helpful.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BxuuLOtQXFc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BxuuLOtQXFc

Patstone
17-03-2013, 08:58 AM
Yes I watched that one, its good isnt it. he has a couple of videos on stonesetting.

SilverBouillon
17-03-2013, 09:22 AM
Patstone, I have not set any stone yet, but that video makes it less intimidating :) Of course, I'm prepared to mess up for a while, it seems that flush setting needs lots of practice.

I have my mother's gold plain wide ring (heavy, about 10g) I would like to re-shape and flush set little stones into. One day hopefully I will be skilled enough to to that.
I asked store jeweler about how much this work will cost with his gems, but he told me it's impossible to re-shape that ring because gold will not take re-shaping. I did not tell him that I'm a bit familiar with metals and just left. :)

Dennis
17-03-2013, 09:30 AM
I think your burnisher would work, but I think Pat Stone's idea of using a mounted burr with the head broken off and the tip rounded and polished is better and makes less of a mess. Making a recess to sap in the stone requires practice.

You can use a number of variations as each setter has a preferred method, but the main aim is to set all the stones at the same height and with the least marks to clean up. Cubic zirconia if bought in tens are cheap practice stones and can be picked out and re-used. Copper makes a good practice metal. You also need practice for setting in flat and D-shaped section rings, as the problems are different. Dennis.

Patstone
17-03-2013, 12:13 PM
If snapping stones into a recess requires practice, I must have progressed more than i thought. I must admit I struggled with it to start with biggest problem was not being able to see how far down I had cut the recess. The first ones I did with my pillar drill, then I had a go with my Foredom and havent had any failures YET !!! One of my problems is losing C.Z's on the pale carpet, the seem to ping everywhere. I buy all of mine on ebay, they are cheap but very good quality for the outlay.

silken
17-03-2013, 01:08 PM
Hi Nick!

First of all, a disclaimer, I'm not an expert, just someone who has spent more time than I care to mention practicing flush setting ;)

There's been some great advice so far. I just thought that I should add that stones larger than 4mm are, in my opinion, rather difficult to flush set. I'm quite happy to flush set anything from 1.3mm - 3.5mm but anything larger than that becomes much more of a challenge given the amount of metal you'll have to burnish down and the depth of metal you'll need to be able to cut a good seat. My method for flush setting seems to work and I get a nice secure stone at the end but I don't often use a bearing cutter/hart burr. All I do is drill a pilot hole, the size of which depends on the size of the stone you are cutting and depth of the metal. If I'm setting small stones, I'd go for a 0.8mm twist drill. After that, I might enlarge the hole a little more with a larger sized twist drill but I usually just go straight ahead and start cutting a seat with a ball burr slightly smaller than the size of the stone. Some people enlarge the hole using a bud/flame burr but I don't do that. I also don't use a setting burr in most cases, I'm quite happy to have a simple seat cut with a ball burr. Once I'm happy that the seat is the correct size/depth, I'll burnish a little metal round the rim of the seat so that the stone can be pushed into the setting securely. This is the stage that a lot of people will use the hart burrs to cut a shelf for the stone to sit on but burnishing some metal over before fitting the stone has a somewhat similar effect (definitely not as secure at this stage but this is where the final burnishing and setting is important).

Test the fit and make sure that the stone is level. If the stone wobbles about in the setting and appears loose, you've made the seat too large. If the stone pops into the recess and sits nice and level with no movement, you've probably got it spot on. After I've checked the stone is sitting correctly, I start burnishing metal over by using a simple straight burnisher, similar to the one you posted. You can use all manner of tools to do this, some people break up old tweezers, grind them down a bit, polish them and set them in a wooden handle. I think I hold the burnisher at about 45 degrees to the stone. Make sure the burnisher doesn't have a sharp tip as this will most likely damage softer stones like amethyst. I use the North, South, East, West rule like you would with bezel setting. Once I've burnished metal over the stone at these points, I begin to burnish in circular movements at a slightly steeper angle and keep doing so until I'm at a 90 degree angle to the stone. Don't let the burnisher touch the stone, just the surrounding metal.

I finish off by checking the stone again, at this point it should be permanently set and you'd have to destroy the whole setting to get the stone out. I use a small ball burr to clean up the pilot hole at the back of the piece. Now, I'll usually finish and polish and depending on whether the stone is ultrasonic safe, I'll give it a clean in the ultrasonic. Badly set stones will fall out if they're put in the ultrasonic.

Here's a picture of one of my tiny flush set diamonds:

4506

Gemsetterchris
17-03-2013, 05:06 PM
Always a good idea to have a practice first as Dennis suggested.
I'd make a brass burnisher for softer stones like amethyst.
Trick is getting a snug fit without forcing the stone..if It's abit loose in the hole it can be problematic.

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Nick martin
17-03-2013, 07:01 PM
Thats a lot of great advice folks, many thanks.

I think the way forward then is for me to buy some copper sheet and some CZ and practive... a lot!

Just wanted to get it clear in my head what the actual workflow was so to speak as I had seen several variations.

Cheers,

Nick

Gemsetterchris
17-03-2013, 08:16 PM
Pushing the surrounding metal over the stone works well in some cases, but can be a problem to clean up toolmarks..especially on flat surfaces. Don't dismiss any variations as they can be useful.

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