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View Full Version : How to set the graver blade into graver handle?



SilverBouillon
15-03-2013, 12:26 PM
Kind of stupid question :), but I can not figure out the best way.
I received graver blades and handles for them with just little drilled spot mark where to set. Should I drill the hole, what size so the graver will set securely into handle?
And how I can push the graver into without any damage to blade?

Goldsmith
15-03-2013, 12:37 PM
Lana, First adjust the graver length to suit your hand size, then drill about an inch into the handle, then grip the graver in a bench vise and finally tap the handle onto the blade with a mallet. I see that you are in the USA, are you referring to what us in the UK call scorpers if so I have attached some blade prep. photos.

James

449644984497

SilverBouillon
15-03-2013, 01:01 PM
Ones again, thank you James!
Of course, vise! My scorpers (spell check disagrees :)) have the setting curve about half of inch, so I don't need to drill the whole inch.
I just bought two small ones, flat and onglette, to test how it is.

Gemsetterchris
15-03-2013, 08:07 PM
Just don't burn them when grinding to shape, take your time & dip them in water alot.

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Wallace
15-03-2013, 09:14 PM
As a little extra, something I learned when taught to set stone that has remained. Have a dedicated cloth available (to wipe the oil residue from the scorper if you have used an Arkansas - or equivolent, stone) and some ultra fine grit (2200) paper for cleaning the mega micro pieces of metal that appear also from sharpening. A wood block, is suggested by Hanuman over at Ganoskin if you don't want to be faffing around with grit papers.

SilverBouillon
16-03-2013, 02:08 AM
Thanks, guys.
I even did not go for shaping and sharpening yet. I bought two new gravers shaped just to know how they are originally shaped, since I've never seen them before. I have three stone sharpener I use for kitchen knives (80 grit alum. oxide, 220grit diamond,380 grit ceramic- used the most) , and buffing wheel for sharpening with coarse grit wheel (I can buy fine in hardware store).

Goldsmith
16-03-2013, 07:54 AM
I have posted this before, but for anyone who is interested, I always re harden and temper my scorpers after shortening and shaping them.
I prepared a photo sheet that shows the process. Sorry to those who have already seen this.

James

4502

ps_bond
16-03-2013, 09:01 AM
I assume you don't use HSS scorpers?

Gemsetterchris
16-03-2013, 09:28 AM
I converted to Lyndsay templates a few years ago & don't bother with shop bought anymore..they seem to last forever not having to re-grind very often.

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Wallace
16-03-2013, 09:58 AM
I have toyed with the idea of these -and thought I had completed my tool requirements for the year. Lol.... Oh dear... Must not look.... Oooooh.....

Gemsetterchris
16-03-2013, 10:22 AM
Lol, then you'll need a diamond disc grinder to go with...

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Goldsmith
16-03-2013, 10:35 AM
I assume you don't use HSS scorpers?

Peter, I use Glardon Vallorbe Chrome Steel scorpers. Many years ago, an old customer and friend gave me a commission to carve his family crest in silver. When finished he asked what he owed me and I said it was a gift, he wouldn't accept it that way so I asked him to buy me some scorpers the next time he exhibited at the Basel fair. Which he did, he bought me three boxes of gravers/scorpers from a tool supplier at the show, this was way back in 1990, each box was full of various shapes as he thought that they were a tool that needed replacing regularly. I still have two full boxes of unused blades so I won't be changing to HSS blades any time soon.

James
4503