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ps_bond
12-03-2013, 01:36 PM
As seen here -

http://www.jewelrydesignerfinder.com/index.php?action=designer-detail&did=73


This setting follows the same principles as channel setting with one important variation: before carving the channel, I carve a crown in each wall then carve the channel inside the crown, finally hammering the metal toward the stone.

Try as I might, I'm not getting what's so innovative about this? ISTR seeing it is patented, but that may be a false memory.
Is he just cutting back the walls of the channel so the stone is held around more of its periphery, rather than just a small edge section?

I can't quite get the sense of the description.

medusa
12-03-2013, 04:25 PM
is it the same as this?

http://www.mazaldiamond.com/blog-en/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/settingchannel1.jpg

I can't make out what he means either, but then I don't really understand stone setting.

ps_bond
12-03-2013, 04:33 PM
That I'd see as normal channel setting - undercutting slightly to create the seat, then moving metal across (a little) and down to retain the stones.
I wonder if he's just describing a flush setting that happens to be over a channel?

Dennis
12-03-2013, 08:50 PM
I think his results are quite attractive, but what I should like to see is how he taps the settings with a hammer and:

1. Keeps the stones in the right place.
2. Ensures that the surface remains perfectly flat. Dennis.

ps_bond
12-03-2013, 10:04 PM
Sellotape works well for the former... Both protects the stone a bit and stops it jumping out before the setting holds it.

As for the surface, rubber abrasives are the usual way I clean up hammer marks.

Gemsetterchris
13-03-2013, 05:03 AM
If all goes well the stones should be a fairly secure fit & not jump about while hammering.
I usually go along tightening by hand & then run a hammer along if needed.

Sellotape: I very nearly choked on my coffee :D

Ideally however you tighten the stone wether by hand or hammer, you want to only displace the metal enough without flattening it more than necessary..so you should have enough metal left to buff any marks off & not end up with a paper thin covering.
4490

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Patstone
13-03-2013, 05:11 AM
If you magnify the stone setting in any of the pictures the metal doesnt seem to cover any of the girdle of the stones, I think thats the terminology "the widest part of the stone, I mean" (just getting into setting facetted stones) , if you notice some are actually set on the top of the ribs, so not held in by metal unless he is cutting a rim under the widest part of the stone on the actual stone, which I wouldnt think he would. Glue ????? No surely not at that price.
Someone more experienced than me should have a go at doing this to see if it can be done.

ps_bond
13-03-2013, 06:34 AM
Sellotape: I very nearly choked on my coffee :D

As taught by Blaine Lewis (although I probably ought to mention it's in the context of setting heavy bezels, so moving quite a lot of metal).

Gemsetterchris
13-03-2013, 07:15 AM
I tend to find methods to avoid shifting too much metal, if you can't shift metal by hand It's too thick or hard, generally made by designers that never set stones or take this into consideration.

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ps_bond
13-03-2013, 09:42 AM
...if you can't shift metal by hand It's too thick or hard...

A nice thick bezel in 9k white, for example... :)