Silver signet ring

[Gemsetterchris]

I`ve started messing around with some "own" ideas..no idea if i`m onto something or wasting time but i find it fun.
Silver signet ring with 2mm sapphire crafted from a blank court wed. No advanced designing, just start & see where it leads :-p
Had trouble refraining from adding more stones but wanted to keep it simple.
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I`ll have to see how things go finding a home for a few bits before deciding if it`s worthwhile..

[medusa]

I like the shapes on the ring, but I'm not entirely sure it works for me as a design.

[Gemsetterchris]

I like the shapes on the ring, but I'm not entirely sure it works for me as a design.
I`m not sure either :), with abit of luck it might spin someone`s wheels.

[medusa]

I have a theory that if I make something I like, then there will be someone else out there who also likes it enough to fork out for it :)

But I'm swearing off gems (apart from one project) because I have enough problems just bashing metal without putting other stuff into the mix.

[SilverBouillon]

Had trouble refraining from adding more stones but wanted to keep it simple.
I would love to see more of your work with stone setting. It's just 2mm gem, but the setting looks perfect.
And the silver mirror finish is great.

[Tabby66]

For what it's worth......here's my halfp'th...........I like the simplicity of the design, but for me, the flat face you have on the shiny side of the ring needs to totally match the side with the stone......no curved/ obvious shadow.............does that make sense?? ....because then you get the simplicity, clean lines and intrigue as to how.......

[Gemsetterchris]

Not 100% with you Tabby but not to worry.
I just wonder... does it appear obvious that the flat bit is actually the top & the stone is in the side?
Can see people getting the wrong impression of how it sits...

[SilverBouillon]

I just wonder... does it appear obvious that the flat bit is actually the top & the stone is in the side?

I see the flat side without stone is top, and the flat with stone is side.

[silken]

I just have to say how perfect the setting looks. I struggle to get flush settings looking so uniform and neat. Would you be kind enough to give a few tips? :)

[Gemsetterchris]

I'll try & do a step by step sometime as there are a few ways to tackle things. Most important is to get the hole just the right size for a tight fit.
Burnish gently, several times if needed..but keep off the stone.
If your burnisher rides the facets you cant get a nice neat circle.

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[Tabby66]

Not 100% with you Tabby but not to worry.
I just wonder... does it appear obvious that the flat bit is actually the top & the stone is in the side?
Can see people getting the wrong impression of how it sits...

Sorry Chris, I didn't mean to offend, but it appeared to me that the unset flat was the upperside and how it sat when worn and that the 2 flats should match, I do think it's lovely work.............and only aspire to be able to achieve such setting ability :">

[silken]

Thanks for the tips Chris. I try to make the seat as snug as possible. Do you undercut the seats with a hart burr or do you just leave the seat as it is? I never undercut so maybe that's why I'm not getting brilliant results. Also, what tool do you use for your flush settings? I've read a lot about flush settings but it's wonderful to get advice from an expert!

Thanks again :D

[Gemsetterchris]

Sorry Chris, I didn't mean to offend
No chance of that Tabby :), i post stuff for an honest opinion. If it looks crap then so be it.

Here is a quick side shot..the "other flat bit" is actually concave, bit hard to see from the pics.
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Silken: Generally i do undercut but it depends..you can do either way but..I have seen people just put a stone in & burnish, personally i`m not convinced thats enough, but i guess it works in some cases.
If you don`t undercut you need to rub some metal over first in my opinion.
My burnisher is best described as a "flat screwdriver shape" but rounded & polished & thick enough not to dig in the metal but glide.
All the tools used are made from a "grain tool" besides the ball burr that is, & i have to say a microscope helps alot!

[ps_bond]

I tend to follow the Blaine Lewis style of setting for flush - for harder stones, using a needle burnisher (ex burr!) to go around the wall of the setting, no undercut. This displaces the top edge outwards, while the lower section displaces inwards over the edge of the stone. One cat, many skinning methods :)

And the scope is a godsend...

[Wallace]

Hi Chris, beautiful work!

I am an Alan Revere follower for flush (gypsy) stone setting and tube setting, but still a relative novice in this area. I like to do an undercut (but that is more influenced from Tony Tigg) and it means once they pop in place, they seldom pop out again. If I had a GRS gravermate, I would not do an undercut, but my budget has limits, like my workspace. :o)

[silken]

Thanks Chris, Peter and Wallace :D

I burnish a little metal over before popping the stone in but I do have a set of hart burrs that I use occasionally. I just never seem to be able to get the undercut spot on, I need some serious practice.

At the moment I use a straight burnisher and an improvised tool made out of an old burr thanks to a post I saw on here somewhere a while ago. They do the job OK but again, I need some practice trying to get the seat looking neat and uniform. I want to buy the Blaine Lewis DVD that Peter has recommended but I'm waiting until I can justify spending that much money. I know it will be worth the spend but right now my bank balance is saying NO WAY lol.

I absolutely miss my microscope. I used to spend about 50% of my time at work looking down a high powered microscope at cells, it was my favourite part of the job. I wish my budget stretched to buying my own microscope for stone setting!

[ps_bond]

I absolutely miss my microscope. I used to spend about 50% of my time at work looking down a high powered microscope at cells, it was my favourite part of the job. I wish my budget stretched to buying my own microscope for stone setting!

I've mentioned before that my Nikon SMZ-10 cost me £10... But only because I managed to buy it from a company that was being liquidated and they'd classified it as scrap metal.
The articulated arm, light and Barlow lens cost a bit more though.

While you might not find quite such a bargain, I've seen reasonable stereo scopes go on EBay for sensible amounts (OK, and very stupid amounts too).