making teeny tiny oval bezels

[medusa]

So I'm working on a project that calls for a fair number of cabochon set stones ranging in size from 4mm to 10mm diameter round and some ovals, the smallest of which are 5x3mm. The round ones I'm good with, I'll make bezels from strip for the bigger ones and use tube for the smaller ones, but the oval ones... what's the best way to approach those? Could I use tubes and stretch if necessary and then bend to shape?

As an added complication, I'd like to make them open backed, so was wondering if it is possible to cut tabs on the bottom of the bezel strip and fold over rather than trying to pierce tiny oval discs and drill a hole through them.

Advice much appreciated!

[Dennis]

Yes you can make oval bezels from round tubing, Liz. If the stones are 5x3mm, then the tube to use will have an internal diameter of 5 plus 3 divided by 2, i.e. 4mm. You can then anneal it and gently squeeze with pliers until you have the right oval.

Equally you can make open bases by using soldered jump rings, formed around a 3.0 mm mandrel, say the shank of a twist drill, making them oval and then flattening gently with a hammer to enlarge them, until they are the right size.

You will need to do a few experiments to get this right. Regards, Dennis

[medusa]

I was hoping you'd reply! :D

I do set myself up to do these harebrained projects. Hopefully this time next year I might get to post some pics :)

[mizgeorge]

Like Dennis, I start with rounds, but I find my teeny oval bezel mandrel very helpful!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RING-BEZEL-MANDREL-OVAL-WIRE-WRAPPING-/300369306034?pt=UK_Crafts_JewelleryMaking_GL&hash=item45ef67e1b2

[medusa]

oooh! I wondered if they made such things!

I'm half tempted to use ready made bezel cups as I fear the time + raw materials = 10 x cost of readymade.

[mizgeorge]

The trouble with the ready made cups is that they're not always quite the right size for ovals in particular. And the rounded bottoms mean that they can and up looking a bit a bit like they've been glued on...

[Dennis]

Proops also sell a set of six assorted minimandrels for £25, but I can't be sure the oval is as fine as George's.
http://www.proopsbrothers.com/acatalog/Mandrels.html.

I have also scanned a photo print of a ring I made with ovals, but it's come out a bit fractured. I would say it was no big deal to make Liz and like all bitter medicines very good for you. Dennis

[ps_bond]

FYI, my Proops oval runs from about 5.2x5.7mm to 11.2x12.2mm.

[medusa]

The trouble with the ready made cups is that they're not always quite the right size for ovals in particular. And the rounded bottoms mean that they can and up looking a bit a bit like they've been glued on...

These aren't going to be sitting on sheet, but encircled by a kind of filigree of silver wire. Well that's the idea...


Proops also sell a set of six assorted minimandrels for £25, but I can't be sure the oval is as fine as George's.
http://www.proopsbrothers.com/acatalog/Mandrels.html.

I have also scanned a photo print of a ring I made with ovals, but it's come out a bit fractured. I would say it was no big deal to make Liz and like all bitter medicines very good for you. Dennis
Nice ring. What are the stones? Moonstones? I'm looking at using around 20 to 30 stones of various sizes for this project.

FYI, my Proops oval runs from about 5.2x5.7mm to 11.2x12.2mm.
that could be good for some of the bigger ones I guess, although once I get over 10mm I manage a bit better. I'm probably doing it wrong, but I get the circumference, make the bezel and solder it into a ring and then shape it over the stone before soldering onto the back plate.

[ps_bond]

Works for me. I rough form the bezel around the stone, solder it closed, then fine tune for curve & length (a sparrowhawk anvil is useful).

I've only just got the mandrels out of curiosity (and I felt I had to try one of their cheap anticlastic stakes - I'll post on that when I've had a play); I've always worked on the assumption that for anything other than square or round a bezel mandrel is going to be slightly wrong more often than it's right, but it provides a start point. For what you're doing, you could always get a 5mm rod (big nail?) and grind an oval with a flex shaft - slim the sides down until you have a rectangle, then round the corners off. Wouldn't take long.

[medusa]

ahhh that's a good idea. One thing is, the stones seem to be identical in shape, so I'd only need to make one.

I think this project will also force me to get the hang of my little torch as well. But that is for another thread :)

[ps_bond]

Or, if you wanted to get fancy, you could make a collet plate & punch :)

[medusa]

a what?



and some more characters because above is too short!

[ps_bond]

A collet plate and punch. Oval shaped tapering hole in a plate, matching oval shaped tapering punch. Again, because you're working with small stones carving & finishing one isn't all that bad.

[medusa]

I don't think I have the metalworking tools to make something like that. and making one would probably take me five times longer than making the bezels. too much ambition, not enough time or skill :)

[ps_bond]

Burrs, drills & whatever abrasives you can cram into the hole to polish it. Whether it is worth the time does depend on how many you're likely to do. For limited numbers I probably wouldn't harden the thing & just make it out of mild.

[medusa]

hmmm well for this project I'm looking at maybe 15 6x4mm settings. Might be worth a go.

[Tabby66]

Works for me. I rough form the bezel around the stone, solder it closed, then fine tune for curve & length (a sparrowhawk anvil is useful).

I've only just got the mandrels out of curiosity (and I felt I had to try one of their cheap anticlastic stakes - I'll post on that when I've had a play); I've always worked on the assumption that for anything other than square or round a bezel mandrel is going to be slightly wrong more often than it's right, but it provides a start point.

I generally don't use standard sized stones and find a small oval triblet very useful, because it literally is a sliding scale of sizes along which to work. It's really handy for 'truing-up' the oval shape!!

[mizgeorge]

hmmm well for this project I'm looking at maybe 15 6x4mm settings. Might be worth a go.

I think for that many, I'd probably cut them from tube. Bellore have 6 x 4.2mm, which would probably do the job? Rashbel seem to be out of stock, but it's sometimes worth a phone call as their website rarely reflects actual stock.