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View Full Version : Setting a marquise on a tube



Julian
27-06-2012, 10:41 AM
I have a design which calls for a marquis to be set on a silver tube. I am just not sure how to approach it. Is the a procedure for cutting a marquise baring ?

3716

Julian

Kwant
27-06-2012, 12:35 PM
Marquise are probably my favourite stones to set, most usually bezel set, though I have prong set them too. I use a quite long winded process of taking a photo of the stone and creating a template for the seat on the computer then pierce it out.

How are you intending to set it?

Dennis
27-06-2012, 01:34 PM
To make the collet, turn the stone upside down, saw and file the centre of the strip so that it can be bent to fit one end. Form around the stone and pinch together at the other end with self closing tweezers or artery forceps and solder. This is quite easy if you cut your strip from 0.4 or 0.5 mm fine silver.

To make a bearer you would normally make a second smaller collet to fit inside the first one, but probably not solder it in, or just tack it. A more skilled person might use a scorper to cut a bearer.

For the tube you show, I would shape the base of the collet to fit and solder it on. For shaping I would wrap some coarse sandpaper around a small rod or drill shank to create a tool of the right diameter. Then run the base of the collet up and down it until it fits the tube.

Once the collet is soldered on I would not make a conventional bearer as described above, but just make a lozenge shaped hole in the tube using small round burrs, to stabilise the culet.

All I haven’t mentioned is the height of the collet. A generous guess will have to do. For rubbing over you need an outside bevel and very little excess metal-a quarter to a third of a millimetre only. Alternatively you can leave it longer and cut U-shaped divisions to make claws.

Lastly you can opt for a tapering collet, which requires curved strip Dennis.

lopez
27-06-2012, 05:56 PM
Hey Julian, if you're going to set the marquis stone into a tube using the rub over method stick the stone to the tube and draw around it ( super glue or a sweet works well, super glue will need super glue remover and a sweet just hot water) remove the stone and remove the metal slowly with a suitable burr until the stones girdle sits 'just below the metal', make sure you drill into the points with a round burr then slowly push the metal over the stone, burnish and bright cut. Remember if the tube is thin fill it before setting to avoid it collapsing (I use thermo plastic). Good luck.

Kwant
27-06-2012, 07:43 PM
and what is "sweet' would a Werthers Original do?

lopez
27-06-2012, 07:55 PM
sounds good or any hard candy- always found bees wax to messy.

Kwant
27-06-2012, 08:18 PM
great any excuse to get the toffees in

Dennis
27-06-2012, 08:48 PM
Hey Julian, if you're going to set the marquis stone into a tube using the rub over method stick the stone to the tube and draw around it ( super glue or a sweet works well, super glue will need super glue remover and a sweet just hot water) remove the stone and remove the metal slowly with a suitable burr until the stones girdle sits 'just below the metal', make sure you drill into the points with a round burr then slowly push the metal over the stone, burnish and bright cut. Remember if the tube is thin fill it before setting to avoid it collapsing (I use thermo plastic). Good luck.

Lopez, it seems you are describing flush setting, but taking the proportions drawn by Julian, when the sides of the girdle are correctly placed, the top and bottom will be well inside the tube cavity.

Of course one could thicken the tube by placing a second well fitting section of tubing inside, but I think the appearance would be better using a collet. Dennis

Kwant
27-06-2012, 08:58 PM
Dennis there is no way you could possibly know what julian was on about from that drawing it is a rectangle with a diamond shape on it, no indication of how he was going to set it, claw, bezel or basket. Julian did not give enough information to know quite what he was up to and given that we know he is dyslexic adds to the confusion!!!!

Patstone
28-06-2012, 04:52 AM
I thought thermo plastic went liquid when heated, or is the temperature used to solder not hot enough to melt it.


Hey Julian, if you're going to set the marquis stone into a tube using the rub over method stick the stone to the tube and draw around it ( super glue or a sweet works well, super glue will need super glue remover and a sweet just hot water) remove the stone and remove the metal slowly with a suitable burr until the stones girdle sits 'just below the metal', make sure you drill into the points with a round burr then slowly push the metal over the stone, burnish and bright cut. Remember if the tube is thin fill it before setting to avoid it collapsing (I use thermo plastic). Good luck.

josef1
28-06-2012, 07:45 AM
I think the Thermo plastic is just used to hold the tube shape when setting the stone it would be removed when soldering

lopez
28-06-2012, 08:18 AM
Hey Patstone, it's some years since I brought a batch of thermo plastic and I know new products are out all the time but mine is rock solid until you place it in hot water ~70oc whereby it turns into a soft putty; it replaces the old setting cement/shellac concept.

caroleallen
28-06-2012, 08:19 AM
There's a clever marquis setting in the Sonia Cheadle book which is done by doming a disc of metal and cutting it in half. The two halves are then soldered together by the rim edges. A ball burr is used to create the bearer and once it fits the stone, the metal can be rubbed over. Looks simple, though I haven't tried it.

Di Sandland
28-06-2012, 08:55 AM
I have this book in my Amazon wish list Carole - is it worth getting?

sorry - started hijacking threads already - didn't take long did it [-X

ps_bond
28-06-2012, 10:09 AM
Looks simple, though I haven't tried it.

I have to say I found it a bit of a pig - mostly in getting the edges aligned accurately; the actual setting work was easy. I'll have another go at some point, that was just a first pass. I ended up cementing the halves onto sticks to make it possible to hold them too.

The Cheadle book is pretty good; I rate both Anastasia Young's book & Cogswell's over it personally (but no idea which I'd place 1st!).

Di Sandland
28-06-2012, 12:26 PM
I have the Cogswell, which I rate very highly so I'd never considered buying another. This Cheadle one sounds like it might have some interesting alternatives though. Hmm...

caroleallen
28-06-2012, 01:10 PM
I've got the Cogswell too but I also like the Cheadle because of the easy step by step diagrams.

Julian
28-06-2012, 07:04 PM
Dennis there is no way you could possibly know what julian was on about from that drawing it is a rectangle with a diamond shape on it, no indication of how he was going to set it

Correct my friend :). I have not decided how it should be set. Personally originally I thought it should be flush, but I could not work out how to do it. Curved services don't lend them selves to flush settings. Thus I opened it up to the group, with out input , and thanks to you guys I have had some very valuable input. I know my stones , but I am here to learn fabrication. Thanks.


given that we know he is dyslexic adds to the confusion!!!!

Thanks for the courtesy. I do apologize but I am completely word blind. If I am to tell the truth, I failed, English o level 12 times, so I decided to solve the problem by marrying an english teacher! That said I never let it hold me back. I just thank you for you patience.


There was one occasion that I requested my operation team to cycle the passwords of the servers, the request came back: denied. The security team did not believe i could send a correctly spelt email!

J

PS my 15 year old spell checked this :'(

Dennis
28-06-2012, 07:40 PM
Dennis there is no way you could possibly know what julian was on about from that drawing it is a rectangle with a diamond shape on it, no indication of how he was going to set it, claw, bezel or basket. Julian did not give enough information to know quite what he was up to and given that we know he is dyslexic adds to the confusion!!!!

Cornelius, there is nothing wrong with Julian. He has quite clearly shown a pointy stone set onto the side of a tube for a pendant. The nearest I have come to doing this, is to split a tube (top left of my picture) And insert my mount into the cavity, albeit for a round cab.

I don't want to be horrid, but I think you are just cross you weren't offered a toffee. Dennis.

Tabby66
28-06-2012, 08:43 PM
I've had site of both these books and would rate the Cogswell over the Cheadle, think i just understood more easily the way things were described,however,I really do like the Anastasia Young settings book. I'd highly recommend it!!

Julian
28-06-2012, 08:52 PM
Cornelius, there is nothing wrong with Julian.s.

Please leave me out of this, you are both good friends and I value you both

J

lopez
29-06-2012, 01:11 PM
books and books, if you fancy learning classical stone setting there are really only the Robert Wooding books and DVDs to give you a good foundation. If you then want something to give yourself a 'Phd' then move onto The Technolgy of Setting, P.A. Grether. This is one of my major influences into all aspects of jewellery.

ps_bond
29-06-2012, 02:35 PM
The Technolgy of Setting, P.A. Grether.

Thanks for the suggestion - I'd not come across that one before; sounds right up my street.

Goldsmith
30-06-2012, 09:24 AM
I would also recommend the Robert Wooding books, if you are interested check out this one for sale at Cookson, called Diamond Setting, the professional approach, it's well worth the £25.25 price tag and shows detailed sketches from preparing tools and all types of setting, see; http://www.cooksongold.com/top/Diamond-Setting-The-Professional-Approach-By-R-Wooding-prcode-999-AMM

James

Julian
02-07-2012, 08:30 PM
I would also recommend the Robert Wooding books, if you are interested check out this one for sale at Cookson, called Diamond Setting, the professional approach, it's well worth the £25.25 price tag and shows detailed sketches from preparing tools and all types of setting, see; http://www.cooksongold.com/top/Diamond-Setting-The-Professional-Approach-By-R-Wooding-prcode-999-AMM

James

Seconded. I have the set, they are superb.

J

Kwant
02-07-2012, 09:22 PM
You have me there Dennis I am a sucker for a toffee :0)