Tips for a heart shaped claw setting

[LydiaNiz]

A lady has asked me to set two stones her great-grandmother kept into rings.
She is not sure if they are glass or amethyst (took them to a jeweller who 'didn't know', but they are def. cut by a hobbyist - cutting is pretty uneven and many of the corners are rounded etc). They're pretty large - there is an oval stone approx 20mm long and a heart shaped stone approx 18 x 12mm. Both stones are quite deep. The underside of the heart is uneven and goes into a rough point.
I want to make a double gallery collet for it. I've made the two heart shapes, now have the four prongs to attach.
How do i do this and get the angles correct without a)crying and b)crying more?
All advice appreciated hugely x

[Dennis]

There' a choice, Lydia.

1. With pliers push the four prong wires into your soldering block so that they open more at the top. Drop in the first heart shape and if the angles are correct solder it in. Then re-adjust the angles for the second one.

2. Solder two wires into a cross. Then bend up the arms to fit your first heart shape. continue as above.

By testing this out with cheap wire first you can work out which method you prefer. Regards, Dennis.

[LydiaNiz]

thank you Dennis - you're a lifesaver as usual!

[LydiaNiz]

Dennis,
i went for number 2. This is my first attempt, and apart from the getting the larger heart to sit in place (I think I did level 4 swearing), was reassuringly straightforward. Thank you :-)
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[Dennis]

Thank you for sharing,that's beautifully done so far Lydia. Get some practice first in nicking the inside of the claws in just the right place, if you have not done this before and leave the prongs long until they are bent over. Finally make sure that the edge of any file used for finishing the prong tips has a smooth safe edge next to the stone.

Sorry to fuss you, but you have me on the edge of my seat now. Dennis.

[LydiaNiz]

thanks Dennis, I will do.
The stone is slightly uneven all around the edge, which will make it more interesting :'(, there is a small chip on the top, but one of the prongs should cover this. Will show you how I get on.

[LydiaNiz]

I never showed you the finished ring!
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[Dennis]

Hi Lydia,
Thanks, for showing us your finished piece. I hope the lady was duly impressed. Did you do the oval as well?
Regards, Dennis.

[LydiaNiz]

She was pleased (phew!), I did the oval, it was much more straightforward, just bezel set - a bit hairy, as again the stone was unevenly cut, really deep too.
The only pics I can find are of when I was testing the fit of the stone, so not very pretty!
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[Tabby66]

She was pleased (phew!), I did the oval, it was much more straightforward, just bezel set - a bit hairy, as again the stone was unevenly cut, really deep too.
The only pics I can find are of when I was testing the fit of the stone, so not very pretty!
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You may think.....not very pretty,........but I think that's rather nicely done and I'm sure was even more impressive when finished!!
It is nice to see finished (or almost finished!!) work :D

[Gemsetterchris]

You made a good job there, i`d just mention that you don`t need quite so much claw on the stone next time.

[ps_bond]

Given this is silver, I wondered if the claws might be a little on the thin side for security?

[Gemsetterchris]

Maybe, but it all depends on how it gets treated.

[ps_bond]

I always assume the worst :)

I surprised someone the other week by not being terribly sympathetic about them losing a diamond out of their ring.
In their horse's stable.

[Gemsetterchris]

What's going to happen when you start knocking out that micro pave? :eek:

[ps_bond]

Maybe I'll need to rely on glue after all :D

[Gemsetterchris]

Maybe I'll need to rely on glue after all :D

I`m sure you`ll do a great job, it`s finding a sensible customer that might be the tricky part.

[Wallace]

What's going to happen when you start knocking out that micro pave? :eek:

Peter will have to start giving lessons! Yeah, I can pavé like a sofa can swim!

But, I have put my efforts into flush, tube and channel settings. The gravers (scorpiers, bull stick etc) no longer worry me.. I have green and horse tape for my fingers and some great heat shrink for the shafts on them just that darned little setting - I can raise the grains and even do that sideways grain if needed (recent repair - I was very chuffed), but for all of that lovely work, I can't get a single clean line no matter how sharp my flat graver is and the setting becomes rubbish.

If I could go down the air-graver route I would.

[Gemsetterchris]

Might be able to give you an idea to try for that but best start a new thread? this one has already gone abit of target (probably my fault) :-"
Then someone else can find it easier.

[LydiaNiz]

:-) It was mostly for a now-and-then ring, so hopefully will be ok. The stone rose up in some alarming angles too, see I was overcautious in some ways and under in others!
Thanks though. If I had a horse, I'd *always* muck out with m'diamonds on...

[Kimkie]

I was just hunting for this exact advice when I came across this first...Hello peeps!! I really must come on here more often!

[Patstone]

I think thats beautiful, the setting looks simple and elegant, just the sort of thing I would wear, and yes, I used to muck out three horses with my diamonds on, my engagement ring wouldnt come off and I didnt have the heart to have it cut off. That was my first marriage, this marriage I have diamonds in my wedding ring so I have to do everything with my diamonds on, they are channel set and look quite firm.

[DODavid]

Wow, looks great... You do have some awesome skills :)