Dennis
13-06-2011, 04:43 AM
In part one, http://www.cooksongold.com/forum/hot-metal-gold-silver-metal-working/3658-gadget-too-many-part-one-three.html, I revealed the contents of my burr boxes. I can never be bothered to put the burrs back in the right place, so they are usually in more of a mess. Here are some further items which live in my small parts box:
Grinding and Separating. Separating disks (lower right) cut metal cleanly and can be used in multiples as grind stones, or to widen a set gap evenly. They do tend to shatter, so wear eye protection.
Diamond disks (top) have limited use for cutting metal, as the edge soon becomes blunt. But by using the flat part they will adjust the ends of ring shanks before closing them for soldering.
If the handpiece is supported horizontally, while a disk is running, then touching a twist drill against it lightly at the correct angle will re-sharpen it.
Lastly, hand held against a rotating rubber point, or wheel they can also be used to dress or re-shape the rubber. Bargain diamond disks found in cheap sets tend to be thick and coarse, so I’m afraid it is better to go for a more expensive option.
Grinding Stones (left)will quickly grind edges back to a scribed line, for file-challenged people like me, using the file only for finishing. This is particularly useful near the end of construction when you can’t put your piece in a vice. The more useful coarse one is called ‘Heatless’ and the smoother one ‘Silent’.
Tools for Acrylic. The pink carborundum stones are particularly good for resin, as they stay cool. The coarse burrs can sometimes become wrapped up in melted resin, in which case they have to be scraped down with the point of a knife, or old graver.
Rubber and Scotchbrite. At the top I have shown various rubber wheels and points for polishing. The colour codes vary according to the maker, but I find three grades of each quite sufficient. The coarse ones wear most quickly.
Scotchbrite mops (left) rapidly remove light scratches and blemishes on small areas, leaving a brushed finish. The coarse ones are green and the gentler ones brown. Take care to run them slowly and press lightly, or they will soon unravel.
The excellent radial wheels (bottom) taken in order will quickly polish a small piece without fuss or mess. Take care to stay with the same make, or you will be confused by the different colour coding. It is marginally cheaper to buy the rubbers loose and mount them on a screw mandrel yourself, but buy one already made up first, to find out how.
On the bottom right I have inserted a diamond covered tool for dressing stones and rubbers. This I bought recently at S&M tools in Leather Lane, off Hatton garden. On line I have only seen one from the USA, but this is only for swank, because for rubber at least, any largish diamond burr or disk will serve.
Part three to follow, Dennis.
Grinding and Separating. Separating disks (lower right) cut metal cleanly and can be used in multiples as grind stones, or to widen a set gap evenly. They do tend to shatter, so wear eye protection.
Diamond disks (top) have limited use for cutting metal, as the edge soon becomes blunt. But by using the flat part they will adjust the ends of ring shanks before closing them for soldering.
If the handpiece is supported horizontally, while a disk is running, then touching a twist drill against it lightly at the correct angle will re-sharpen it.
Lastly, hand held against a rotating rubber point, or wheel they can also be used to dress or re-shape the rubber. Bargain diamond disks found in cheap sets tend to be thick and coarse, so I’m afraid it is better to go for a more expensive option.
Grinding Stones (left)will quickly grind edges back to a scribed line, for file-challenged people like me, using the file only for finishing. This is particularly useful near the end of construction when you can’t put your piece in a vice. The more useful coarse one is called ‘Heatless’ and the smoother one ‘Silent’.
Tools for Acrylic. The pink carborundum stones are particularly good for resin, as they stay cool. The coarse burrs can sometimes become wrapped up in melted resin, in which case they have to be scraped down with the point of a knife, or old graver.
Rubber and Scotchbrite. At the top I have shown various rubber wheels and points for polishing. The colour codes vary according to the maker, but I find three grades of each quite sufficient. The coarse ones wear most quickly.
Scotchbrite mops (left) rapidly remove light scratches and blemishes on small areas, leaving a brushed finish. The coarse ones are green and the gentler ones brown. Take care to run them slowly and press lightly, or they will soon unravel.
The excellent radial wheels (bottom) taken in order will quickly polish a small piece without fuss or mess. Take care to stay with the same make, or you will be confused by the different colour coding. It is marginally cheaper to buy the rubbers loose and mount them on a screw mandrel yourself, but buy one already made up first, to find out how.
On the bottom right I have inserted a diamond covered tool for dressing stones and rubbers. This I bought recently at S&M tools in Leather Lane, off Hatton garden. On line I have only seen one from the USA, but this is only for swank, because for rubber at least, any largish diamond burr or disk will serve.
Part three to follow, Dennis.