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View Full Version : One Size Fits All? No Not Quite.



Dennis
01-11-2010, 10:05 AM
The subject of ring sizing is so fraught with problems, it’s a wonder anyone offers to make rings at all. You pass your client a bunch of ring sizers and they humour you by choosing one. ‘there’s really no need ‘ they think, ’I just take the usual size’. Anyhow they are late for something more urgent. A few weeks later they return with their ring in a box. ‘I love my ring they say, but could you just…’ Here are some of the problems:

Rings made of wider material need to be much larger to fit the same finger, maybe by two sizes. Other factors such as bevelled inner edges or even a high polish might make the ring seem looser. So if you value your sanity, and wish to remain solvent you might factor in a mock-up in base metal which, once proved correct, can be copied faithfully. At the very least use ring sizers of the same width and contour as the intended ring.

If you add a heavy stone on a tall setting, the ring will still swivel disconcertingly and to my knowledge the only remedy then is to add a spring. This might also have to be the answer for someone with fatter than usual knuckles, or whose hands swell periodically.

I have been told that because knuckles are oval in shape, thinner from top to bottom than from side to side, rings can be oval too, but the other way. They are then put on sideways and straightened up for a tight fit. I have always resisted this because I cannot get my head around sizing oval shanks.

Other problems arise when the shank is square or D shaped and the ring stick can no longer be used to guide you. Then it is time to play the Memory Game. Using a ring the client is happy with, pass it over one of your own knuckles that it fits well. Then make a note: ‘Very tight over the first knuckle of R. index finger’, for example. Aim to make the new ring feel similar, but try a mock-up first. Make the client try the final version again before setting any stones. You can become so good at this that you use it to double check all your rings.

If all else fails here is my design for an adjustable ring. The curly bit can easily be pinched with pliers to tighten it, or the ring can be pushed up a ring stick to enlarge it. The scheme shown below is for the shank of this size O ring on 1mm graph paper. I used 1.6mm square wire with the edges bevelled. Both parts are identical, but one has been turned over and then they were soldered together. Dennis.

sonia
01-11-2010, 05:24 PM
Thank you Dennis - I always struggle with ring sizing and have been looking for an alternative - may give this a try if you don't mind.

Sonia
x

abyjem
01-11-2010, 05:52 PM
What a very clever design - completely agree with you on the nightmares of ring sizing -

jille
01-11-2010, 07:07 PM
a lovely ring dennis thank you for sharing . I have made some that just wrapped around at the front under the bezel but my Dad said they looked like lucky bag rings. i would like to give it a go too if that's ok with you

Joe
01-11-2010, 07:55 PM
As it happens, I made a "resizeable" ring this very weekend! Not my usual fayre, but I needed a present for a friend and I could only guess at her ring size...

It's based on the idea of a vine wrapping around her finger with a single leaf off-shoot and a curly, exploratory tendril... which allows for the basic structure to be a simple spiral of varying diameter. The shank is made thin enough that she can tweak it for size herself...

2417

Dennis
02-11-2010, 09:12 AM
Jille, be my guest, but let us know how you get on. It's always more more fun with some feedback.
Joe, that is one romantic ring with its leaf and tendril. I know several people who would like to wear it.
Somewhere there is also a version for an adjustable ring by George. Hopefully she can put it on again.
Kind regards, Dennis.

jille
02-11-2010, 02:06 PM
thanks Dennis, it will be in the new year as i don't have time to play, just now I'm making glass items. I think as a beginner mine will be a simplified version, i will post a picture, if/ when i get round to it. I'll put up the lucky bag rings if i get a moment at the weekend. i don't have them with me just now

abyjem
02-11-2010, 08:07 PM
Dennis would you mind if I had a go at your design too? it looks so much nicer than the run of the mill adjustables that as said before look like "luckybag rings" lol.

I will happily post pics of my results, even if they are pants compared to yours and that lovely vine ring by Jo

Dennis
03-11-2010, 08:40 AM
[QUOTE=abyjem;39767]Dennis would you mind if I had a go at your design too?

Please do, it's free for all. I guess you could also use round wire, but do the experiment in copper first to verify that you are in the right size bracket. Dennis.

abyjem
03-11-2010, 05:11 PM
thanks Dennis - yes I will definately try copper first - I doubt I will get it right first time - lol

MuranoSilver
04-11-2010, 01:56 PM
neat solution to a common problem!
Another option is to do the "lucky bag" crossover in reverse
(behind the setting) will post picture when at home & have the cord :)
nic xx

Milomade
14-11-2010, 03:50 PM
I've got to make an adjustable ring and not sure how to go about it - it's for a lady who has rather large knuckles - she wants a ring in size P to fit her finger, but wants it to be adjustable so that she can slip it over her big knuckle and then for it to bounc back to size P to fir the finger - does that make sense? What's the best way of going about this? Would I make a ring that's a couple fo size bigger and then saw through this and round off the ends and then make these cross over and shrink it down to a size P?

Any advice, much appreciated.

Thanks
E

Dennis
14-11-2010, 08:19 PM
Dear E,
I do not know of any system which can be adjusted on a daily basis without cracking. So I would make the ring to pass closely over the knuckle and fit a matching Ring Clip from Cooksons to steady it on the thin part of the finger. It is not an elegant solution, but if the lady will accept it, I know it works. If you will refer back to my post you will note that large and heavy settings make things worse.
Kind regards, Dennis.

Milomade
15-11-2010, 11:39 AM
Thanks for your comments and the suggestion of using a ring clip. I'm not sure the customer would go for that to be honest as I did suggest it and she didn't like the idea. I said it might be possible to make an open ring - maybe I should make up the blank and try it out and see how it functions, but agree that with constant movement, it'll probably crack.

mizgeorge
15-11-2010, 02:08 PM
What about a 'between fingers' ring? So you just have an shank at the back, and (presumably) two buttons, perhaps of different sizes, which sit on top of the gaps in the fingers rather than on top of the finger itself.

Milomade
15-11-2010, 03:31 PM
I'm not entirely sure what you mean. The ring the customer has ordered is one of my sea glass rings...

like this:
Sea Glass Rings | Flickr - Photo Sharing! (http://www.flickr.com/photos/milomade/4580024282/in/set-72157623773615676/)

mizgeorge
15-11-2010, 03:46 PM
like this

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/220/492059108_4007fb592e.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/cclb/492059108/)
Floating Saucer Series Ring (http://www.flickr.com/photos/cclb/492059108/) by ColleenBaran (http://www.flickr.com/people/cclb/), on Flickr

lots of variations, but no need for accurate sizing. You just need to ensure that the two 'top' pieces are large enough to hold in place.

Milomade
15-11-2010, 03:59 PM
Wow - that's really lovely - I love this idea - but it'll probably double the cost of the ring, so I know she won't go for it, but I now know what you mean and that would look lovely with buttons! I might have to give it a go. It would work very well with sea glass too.

Dennis
15-11-2010, 04:17 PM
Brilliant George, it never occurred to me that they could solve this problem. Dennis.

jille
15-11-2010, 05:20 PM
i did the cross over behind the bezel but it still feels lucky bag to me, I'm just a beginner so maybe I can improve on things .
George I've never seen a piece like that, will it stay on?

Dennis
16-11-2010, 05:46 AM
I have come up with an idea based on a keyring of similar design, but it still needs testing which I hope to do later.

The shank with the setting already added to avoid re-heating is left open at the back by about 9mm. One free end is flattened and formed into a rounded hook. The other is flattened and has a small horizontal hole to take a thin wire ring made of say 0.65mm wire.

This wire ring is pinched into a long oval and then into a figure of eight to give tension. It hinges and will engage the hook for closure. Being straight it will grip the back of the finger.

For strength and wear resistance it could be made of 9ct white gold. Dennis.