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Jilly Seweller
07-08-2009, 08:33 PM
Hi

I suppose this is and extension to the cleaning rusty tools thread. I just wondered if anyone had any idea how I should clean a second hand rolling mill, which I bought recently.
It's not very rusty as such, just a bit tarnished mainly, although some areas are beginning to rust, if that makes sense! Can anyone suggest anything?
I did think about cleaning it with Brasso or liquid silver cleaner!

And I have also bought a Microweld too (from the same person), it has been serviced about 4 years ago and used very little after. The seller insists it's fine to use as is, but I understand it's better to use a Microweld often as they don't like to be stood unused? It starts up OK, but is it dangerous if not serviced often?

Many Thanks

Jilly Seweller :confused:

nikki_d72
26-08-2009, 01:04 PM
Lucky you! Second hand mills are like gold dust.

To clean the mill I would take the rollers right out and give them a good rub with a fine grit wet and dry emery paper, clean back well to remove the grit then rub in some oil or WD-40, then rub back with a tissue or soft cloth. then put them back in. If you cant get the rollers out then just thread the emery through with the rollers wound open and see-saw it back and forth, turning the handle a little to get the whole surface done, making sure you don't work on one area too long, or you'll create a flat. Then do the same cleaning and oiling, to stop any rust forming. If there are any serious dints in the steel, then I'd try to find a friendly local engineering workshop to "skim" them, somethines an old fashioned car-mechanic will have the right gear to do it for you, as emerying will never be accurate enough to avoid a hollow forming somewhere.

Sorry I don't have a clue on microwelds, I'm a bit of a hater in that department, still like the old fashioned torch you blow through, he he, I'm a luddite.
Nikki

Bigwol
27-08-2009, 01:31 AM
Hi

I bought a 40 year old Durston C120 from eBay, and had a similar job to bring it up to scratch.

The only damage was a cracked plastic handle - replaced free of charge by Durston following an email attaching a picture of the mill and asking how old it was and what type it was - (40 years and Early C120). Top marks to Durston for excellent customer service.

The rolls were in good condition, but had slight surface corrosion from standing unused.

My solution was to use Sticky backed 3M 9 micron abrasive (Aluminium Oxide) stuck on to a spare Bench Peg - see photos, it worked a treat.

I held the Peg / Abrasive wedge against the partly open rolls applying slight pressure while turning the handle to rotate the rolls against the abrasive.

Result - no rust and a Rolling mill which works as good as new.

CyberPaddy66
31-08-2009, 01:06 PM
Oooh I have dreams of owning a rolling mill :lol:

Great idea for cleaning the rollers! :Y:

Jilly Seweller
15-09-2009, 11:34 AM
Thanks for the excellent advise. They say necessity is the mother of all invention! I have cleaned the rolling mill now with WD40 and fine wet & dry paper wrapped round an old polishing stick, although i will use your tip with the bench peg to keep it in tip top condition.
Someone, i think on another forum (Ganoskin), suggested applying some Renaissance Wax to the surface to protect the rollers from rusting up when not in use. I have tried this and so far it's worked well. The wax isn't too greasy either. I have also put a cover on the mill too.......

I would put some pics up but you have to submit 5 posts before you can do this.

Thanks again

:~:

agent_44
15-09-2009, 11:40 AM
Out of interest everyone refering to 'fine' wet & dry paper - what do you class as fine! I have a rolling mill and I'd like to do this to a couple of the rollers but obviously dont want to do any damage!

Jilly Seweller
15-09-2009, 11:42 AM
Thanks for the reply :)

I'm not sure what i am gonna do with the microweld. I understand, from a nice man a Walsh's customer service dep, that they work best when used often and i probably wouldn't use it every day. It will probably need a service too, which is expensive!

Like you, i have the old fashioned torch you blow through, but i like gadgets....

Thanks again :~:

Jilly Seweller
15-09-2009, 12:03 PM
I used 1000 grade first and then 1200 with lots of WD40. However, the rust on my rollers wasn't too bad, just light surface rust really, you could still see lot's of the steel rollers.

I hope that helps :)

agent_44
15-09-2009, 12:14 PM
That does Jilly, thanks a lot :)

medusa
01-03-2012, 01:48 PM
Sorry to bump this oldie, but now i have my new durston (loud whoops of joy) I'm wondering what people use to keep the rollers rust free in between uses. If I'm not going to be using it for a prolonged time, I intend getting some of the durston grease which is recommended, but if I'm going through a period of using it every day or every other day, will a squirt of WD40 be enough?

Goldsmith
01-03-2012, 03:16 PM
Sorry to bump this oldie, but now i have my new durston (loud whoops of joy) I'm wondering what people use to keep the rollers rust free in between uses. If I'm not going to be using it for a prolonged time, I intend getting some of the durston grease which is recommended, but if I'm going through a period of using it every day or every other day, will a squirt of WD40 be enough?

If you are using your Durston every day just cover it with an old blanket when not in use and also make sure that the rollers are left apart, I would only use oil or grease if the mills are to be stored for a while, oiled mill rollers really need cleaning off every time the mill gets used, otherwise you will get uneven rolled sheet with textures of any oil that had been left on the rollers. Any machinery benefits from being covered by an old blanket a method taught to me by an engine turner, who covered his treasured engine turning machines with blankets at the end of each working day.

James

Dennis
01-03-2012, 07:57 PM
As James has said, cover it when not in use, but not with something that traps condensation, hence the blanket.

The problem I have found, is that tiny specks of hard grit which are not easy to see, can settle on your rollers and leave pits on the sheet that you are rolling down. As a result I wipe the rollers with a clean cloth and a trace of silicone spray from the ironmongers while they are turning. This does not seem to affect the metal or interfere with soldering.

My can says 3-in-one professional silicone spray lubricant, but I imagine other lubricants used very sparingly as a polish would do. Dennis.

medusa
03-03-2012, 04:13 PM
Thanks guys. I'm very excited about it! will let you know how I get on

medusa
05-03-2012, 01:50 PM
Dennis, do you spray onto the rollers and wipe or onto the cloth and wipe? Also do you need to wipe it off before you roll again?

I have it all bolted down now courtesy of Mr Medusa and will start by experimenting on thinning solder. First I have to write an essay though :(

Dennis
05-03-2012, 09:13 PM
Spray the cloth lightly and use it sparingly as if it were a very expensive polish. Then put it to bed until next time. If you are worried use a dry lint free cloth at the start of the next session. Even a stray thread will mark silver sheet
A digression:
When I first had my mill, I made the mistake of tightening the top screw too fast and too often. Remember the springs are quite strong and will have an effect, even on the second pass without closing the rollers more. Particularly with strip, such as solder, if you go too fast, you can just get a wiggly squashed mess. Dennis.

medusa
07-03-2012, 02:06 PM
thanks Dennis! I have successfully now got lovely thin solder, rolled a 5mm square of 22ct gold down to a 20mm x 5mm strip and made some oval tags from round tags. I find the measurement dial on the top a bit confusing though.

Dennis
07-03-2012, 06:08 PM
I find the measurement dial on the top a bit confusing though.

You're not the only one Liz, I never use it. Glad you like your new toy, Dennis.

sparkles
09-03-2012, 12:23 PM
My tools often get condensation on them so I have become quite good at tackling this. I do use WD40 if I need to clean tools up but I like to give the rollers on my mill a good coat of vaseline which works well. Also covering the mill with a cloth keeps some of the condensation away and always wipe the rollers over with an oily rag after use.

medusa
10-03-2012, 06:21 PM
I thought about using vaseline for periods between use as I can only really work fairly spasmodically because of study now. it's probably a bit easier to get off than the grease that is on there.

WitchfordSilver
10-03-2012, 09:04 PM
I don't think there is nothing in side the microweld that you can't service yourself. Buy some extra long rubber gloves lots of old news papers and buckets of clean water.

It's just a big metal tube full of very nasty water and Base (very alkaline chemical). Very strong drain cleaner. So you might be able to just put it down the toilet with lots of water. Keep washing the parts with clean water, distilled or deionised would be best. I gave mine a good flushing with deionised water, changed all the pipes and refilled with deionised water and Potassium Hydroxide. Just remember that the water gets hot when you all the potassium. Don’t let the water get on the dry potassium. Let the water mix cool for a hour or two, then refill the unit. Cover every think with lots of paper to catch any drips. The few drips i had had eaten through about 4-5 sheets by the time i finished.

Next time I’m going to take the cell apart and give the inside a good clean. Only 4 nuts and a rubber washer hold it together. Remember that one end is negative and the other end is positive the rubber washer keeps them apart. There might also be some insulators under the nuts as well.

With a lot of care and patients it should be easy to clean it. Good luck. I love mine great for doing chains