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View Full Version : How to make a cage - Part 1



Bigwol
01-12-2009, 09:26 PM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v470/DaveWallisPics/BeadCage1_WireCutting.jpg

Make sure your measuring equipment is set to imperial, (not metric).

Set it to exactly 1 inch.

Once this is done, select some 32 thou silver wire and cut 8 x 1 inch lengths either judging the length by eye against the gauge.

Or by setting up a chenier cutting jig (the red thing) which can aid repeatability and speed production.

:xmas;_):

Bigwol
03-12-2009, 09:19 PM
Just kidding about imperial measurements! -
The wire is 1 inch long (about 25mm) for us EU-ites and is standard fully annealed Cookson's best 0.8mm Sterling silver wire.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v470/DaveWallisPics/Bench/beadcage/BeadCage2.jpg

This is a Wire collet jig.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v470/DaveWallisPics/Bench/beadcage/BeadCage3.jpg

Clockwise from the top - Base, Collar, piece of miscellaneous copper (stops the wires dropping right through),
and Nut - which I use as a spacer, to keep the copper sheet at the height I want it!
And last but not least - 8 Claw head.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v470/DaveWallisPics/Bench/beadcage/BeadCage4.jpg

I'm just using the jig to keep the wires apart and roughly aligned - (since juggling 8 wires can otherwise be tricky).
An alternative method would have been to stick the 8 wires into the charcoal block directly which works just as well
(if not better as the jig acts like a heat sink, which can be a menace if you don't have a lot of heat in the first place.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v470/DaveWallisPics/Bench/beadcage/BeadCage9.jpg

The wires are pushed loosely in the jig, --------- next time I'll tidy them up and get down to some soldering.

Bigwol
04-12-2009, 12:25 AM
I made a cap for the top of the cage, to cover the joint - this is the moment of whacking it out using a disc cutter.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v470/DaveWallisPics/Bench/beadcage/Hammer.jpg

And here's the result

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v470/DaveWallisPics/Bench/beadcage/Cap1.jpg

To solder the wires and the cap I'm using Oxy Propane as it gives a small, very hot flame - the torch is a Smiths Little torch.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v470/DaveWallisPics/Bench/beadcage/Flame.jpg

And here is the result - not my finest soldering, but it won't come apart in a hurry!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v470/DaveWallisPics/Bench/beadcage/Soldered.jpg

Bigwol
04-12-2009, 12:30 AM
Here's the soldered cage after pickling.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v470/DaveWallisPics/Bench/beadcage/pickled.jpg

Next we need to get it into the shape of a rounded cage top.
For this we apply violence in the form of a doming punch in a doming block.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v470/DaveWallisPics/Bench/beadcage/domingblock.jpg

See! - it's domed already

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v470/DaveWallisPics/Bench/beadcage/domed.jpg

caroleallen
04-12-2009, 07:33 AM
This is good. Don't keep us waiting too long for the next installment please.

caroleallen
04-12-2009, 07:35 AM
Blimey, I've just noticed the time of your last post Bigwol! Get some sleep - we can wait a little longer. :)

Solunar Silver Studio
04-12-2009, 07:41 AM
Oh! ...to have all these tools!!! I'm loving the thread though Bigwol...keep it coming!!:Y:

Tigerlily
04-12-2009, 07:43 AM
Wow this is fab, thanks Bigwol! Especially great for me being a newbie:Y: Really great to see it in stages. Can't wait for the next installment :) Erm well when youhave caught up on your sleep that is. :xmaslaugh:

lorraineflee
04-12-2009, 08:46 AM
Thanks for the demo of the claw setting jig too, I've got one and it didn't come with instructions - I think I dare use it now!
Lorraine

bustagasket
04-12-2009, 11:24 AM
i am such a noob. it would never have occurd to me that you could shape solderd wire bits with a doming block. excellent thread :ta:

Ominicci
04-12-2009, 12:07 PM
Fantastic tutorial!! Many thanks :worthy:

Bigwol
04-12-2009, 09:23 PM
The base is punched out of fine silver using the disc cutter, the silver is 0.4mm thick.
There is no particular reason for using fine silver - I just had a thin sheet of it handy.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v470/DaveWallisPics/Bench/beadcage/BeadCage13.jpg

Refining the dome using a polished hammer against the wire, supported by a doming punch
of an appropriate diameter to suit the desired curve.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v470/DaveWallisPics/Bench/beadcage/BeadCage14.jpg

The rib sides are lightly hammered on a small polished anvil to straighten them, and give them a hammered appearance to match the domed top.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v470/DaveWallisPics/Bench/beadcage/BeadCage15.jpg

Cage ribs , base and black heart - I've run out of red ones! but I might buy some tomorrow . .

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v470/DaveWallisPics/Bench/beadcage/BeadCage16.jpg

Emerald
04-12-2009, 09:26 PM
I'm going to get me one of those them disc cutters have being eyeing them up for a while just wish they went up a little larger

Bigwol
04-12-2009, 09:40 PM
putting a punch which matches the base diameter (approx 13mm) inside the cage a measurement
is made including two hammered ribs and the punch -

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v470/DaveWallisPics/Bench/beadcage/BeadCage17.jpg

This works out at 13.36mm which will be the inside diameter of the hoop we are going to make next.
To find the length of 0.8mm wire we need to cut the, standard ring making formula is used.

required inside diameter + metal thickness x pi = length of metal required.

13.36 + 0.8 x 3.14159 = 44.48 mm

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v470/DaveWallisPics/Bench/beadcage/BeadCage18.jpg

Measure and cut the wire

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v470/DaveWallisPics/Bench/beadcage/BeadCage19.jpg

Then bend roughly into a hoop, it doesn't need to be a perfect circle yet, but the ends must be square
and they must butt up against each other with no gap ready for the soldering,
The speck to the right of the hoop is the hard solder to be used, and hoop and solder should be fluxed, I used Auflux.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v470/DaveWallisPics/Bench/beadcage/BeadCage20.jpg

Di Sandland
04-12-2009, 09:44 PM
Wol this is a wonderful tutorial - we'll be wanting more after this you know ;)

Bigwol
04-12-2009, 09:51 PM
The hoop was soldered using hard solder, this allows us to use either medium or easy solder
when we get to soldering the hoop on to the ribs later.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v470/DaveWallisPics/Bench/beadcage/BeadCage21.jpg

A bit of light filing with a 6 cut needle file and a whizz with the pink wheel soon gets the joint looking tidy

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v470/DaveWallisPics/Bench/beadcage/BeadCage22.jpg

To make the hoop round, it is hammered on a round triblet aiming the hide mallet towards the big end
forcing the hoop to stretch a little and adopt the round shape we want.

Note - I used a hide mallet because the wire is only 0.8mm thick, and has just been annealed during the soldering op.
If I used a metal hammer I would end up making it rather bigger than I want! I just want it round.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v470/DaveWallisPics/Bench/beadcage/BeadCage23.jpg

It's round - and it fits! - looking good so far . .

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v470/DaveWallisPics/Bench/beadcage/BeadCage24.jpg

MuranoSilver
04-12-2009, 09:53 PM
Enjoying the tutorial - love the caged heart
maybe I should make you a little PMC bird bead ;)
Nic x

Bigwol
04-12-2009, 09:54 PM
Gone for a beer.

See you tomorrow.

Dave

snow_imp
05-12-2009, 08:42 AM
I'm loving this tutorial. More will definitely be expected from you in the future!

Vivia
05-12-2009, 09:16 AM
So informative- thanks Dave!

Petal
05-12-2009, 09:40 AM
Awesome tutorial Dave and more great tips on how to do things. I'm glad you have a work area that looks worse than mine, I don't feel so bad now. :D

Can't wait for the next installment :ta:

Solunar Silver Studio
05-12-2009, 10:50 AM
Hope you enjoyed your pint! It was well deserved!!!:Y:

Hart-Star
05-12-2009, 11:11 AM
Very clear and impressive.
At this rate we'll have a web-cam of you and the pint.

Bigwol
05-12-2009, 11:54 AM
Very clear and impressive.
At this rate we'll have a web-cam of you and the pint.

Pint? - Is that an offer? - Mine's a Tinners thanks.

Cheers

Dave

Ominicci
05-12-2009, 04:32 PM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v470/DaveWallisPics/Bench/beadcage/BeadCage24.jpg

I LOVE THIS PHOTO!!

Thanks again Dave!

Gemma
06-12-2009, 12:55 PM
Well if you're ever in my neck of the woods I'll certainly shout you a Tinners :cheers:
You're amazing for sharing all these detailed steps :X

Bigwol
08-12-2009, 01:15 AM
Well if you're ever in my neck of the woods I'll certainly shout you a Tinners :cheers:
You're amazing for sharing all these detailed steps :X

I like detailed instructions, one of my favourite books is Professional Goldsmithing - A Contemporary Guide to Traditional Jewelry Techniques
by Alan Revere - ISBN 0-9651049-0-7 His work is meticulous, intelligent and flawlessly executed. - It looks good too!

Others I respect (and have nicked ideas and techniques from) include

Contemporary Jewelry (A Craftsman's Handbook) Philip Morton ISBN 0-03-072200 - great for freeform design

The inevitable - THE COMPLETE METALSMITH - Tim McCreight ISBN - 0-87192-240-1 - (Don't bother getting the posh Pro edition, the drawings are better in the basic edition)

Metal Techniques for Craftsmen - by the late Oppi Untracht - A basic manual on the methods of forming and decorating metals
- actually not basic at all - and interesting since it covers simple techniques used in supposedly 'less advanced' countries such as India, which make us all look like beginners! ISBN - 0-7091-0723-4

The Theory & Practice of GoldSmithing - Prof. Dr Erhard Brepohl
Technical, and very Germanic in it's disciplined approach to teaching every aspect of Gold and Silversmithing - from metallurgy, alloying and the chemistry of metal colouring and etching - to traditional craft exercises for perfecting your filing technique - there's a lot in here - Initially published in German in 1961 it has only recently been translated into English by Charles Lewton-Brain - Editied by Tim McCreight

Last - but by no means least - My recommendation for your Christmas list - Gemstones of the World by Walter Schumann - Newly revised and expanded Third Edition ISBN - 1-4027-4016-6. As the back cover says - the definitive guide to gems for over 20 years. It is truly excellent, and relatively inexpensive - I got mine for £9.99 from Amazon - over 1500 photos of Gemstones and Semi precious stones in their rough and polished states.

Have a lovely Christmas

Dave

WitchfordSilver
08-12-2009, 07:50 PM
Great Dave, I’ve watched videos and thought to myself that I can do that. Gone out and sat at the bench and made it. I’ve found that reading some books seem to make it sound harder. Your pictures breaking the stages down, will help us to see that most things can be made in stages.

Great work again Dave.
Neil

Lindyloo
08-12-2009, 09:05 PM
Nice work Dave. It's your great photos that make the tutorial come to life.

Bigwol
09-12-2009, 01:25 AM
The new foot control - complete with free Draper switch housing - (at least I got some use out of it - the screwdrivers were rubbish!)

I built it because I got a bit stuck with the soldering pictures - basically I ran out of hands, a feeling which I'm sure many of you sympathise.

It may not look like much, but it means I can preset exposure and focus (all my lenses are manual focus), and then just tread on the switch to take the photo, hopefully at the right instant.

I can have the torch in my left hand, my soldering pick in my right hand and my foot on the switch to take the piccy!

So far it works really well - there is a bit of a danger that I concentrate so much on taking the picture, that I forget about the job in hand, and make a complete cods of it - wish me luck!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v470/DaveWallisPics/done/FOOTCONTROL.jpg

Bigwol
09-12-2009, 01:31 AM
Before soldering, the solder needs to be fluxed - I use a paint brush

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v470/DaveWallisPics/done/BeadCage32.jpg

The target for the solder - in this case the centre post also needs to be fluxed

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v470/DaveWallisPics/done/BeadCage33.jpg

Heat the solder so it's just molten ready for picking up with the pick

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v470/DaveWallisPics/done/BeadCage34.jpg

Bigwol
09-12-2009, 01:36 AM
Pick the solder up with the tip of your soldering pick

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v470/DaveWallisPics/done/BeadCage35.jpg

Place it gently on the target area while heating the target - NOT the solder!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v470/DaveWallisPics/done/BeadCage36.jpg

Once placed continue heating the area to ensure the solder flows.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v470/DaveWallisPics/done/BeadCage39.jpg

Bigwol
09-12-2009, 01:45 AM
Now that we have a post with hard solder on the end, we are ready to attach it to the 0.4mm fine silver base,
hold the soldered end of the post on the base heating the base NOT the post.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v470/DaveWallisPics/done/BeadCage40.jpg

When the base gets hot enough for the Hard solder to melt, the post will suddenly drop as the solder flows -
Remove the flame immediately and let go of the post - it is firmly attached.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v470/DaveWallisPics/done/BeadCage41.jpg

This results in a really neat job, without solder all over the base.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v470/DaveWallisPics/done/BeadCage42.jpg

Now all we've got to do is solder all the bits together!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v470/DaveWallisPics/done/BeadCage43.jpg

Solunar Silver Studio
09-12-2009, 05:55 AM
This is just brilliant... Your photos make everything so clear! Thanks for sharing this all with us.:Y:

snow_imp
09-12-2009, 06:57 AM
I'm loving this tutorial. So many skills I want to learn.

Di Sandland
09-12-2009, 09:35 AM
Brilliant, Wol, just brilliant. The step-by-step pics are better than any of the text books I have here because they break down to each part of the procedure. Thank you.

Fi Wilson
09-12-2009, 12:30 PM
I'm loving these installments - thank you!

Fi

lorraineflee
09-12-2009, 12:40 PM
This is a great tutorial, thanks so much
Lorraine

Ominicci
09-12-2009, 05:39 PM
Just the last(?) bit to see and then we can all have a go! Somehow I think soldering 8 legs on to flat disc is going to be a bit challenging (knowing me there is no way they are all going to be the exact right length etc). Anyone up for it?

Solunar Silver Studio
09-12-2009, 06:28 PM
I'd love to give it a go...I'm just lacking 95% of the necessary equipment...and 95% of the necessary skills!! Not that such minor considerations usually stops me!!:hohoho:

lilacmonkey
09-12-2009, 09:20 PM
clever clever clever.
both the step by step.and your photos.
love the foot switch shutter release.
:Y:
stu g

Lindyloo
09-12-2009, 09:35 PM
That's great Dave. Read about using the pick to pick up solder here a while ago, and that helps bring it to life, thanks. We could do with some more of these.

Jayne
09-12-2009, 09:35 PM
Fascinating & inspirational stuff!
Thanks for sharing :)
J x

Sunnybank
09-12-2009, 09:49 PM
That's great Dave. Read about using the pick to pick up solder here a while ago, and that helps bring it to life, thanks. We could do with some more of these.

Yes it suddenly made sense, thanks Dave :snow:

Bigwol
10-12-2009, 12:34 AM
You know the situation - you've got wire of the right thickness, but it's all bent - How do you get it to behave?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v470/DaveWallisPics/done/BeadCage28.jpg

Stretch it! - stick one end in a vice, grip the other end with draw tongs, and pull until you feel it give. Let go, and release the grip.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v470/DaveWallisPics/done/BeadCage29.jpg

The wiggly wire is now straight - (if slightly mangled at both ends!) - cut the ends off and use your lovely new bit of straight silver wire.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v470/DaveWallisPics/done/BeadCage30.jpg