Which handgraver for cleaning bezel after setting.

[Steved]

Hello all. I'm wondering what shape and size of hand graver I should use to clean up bezel edges, like this ring (made from brass)or earring. I mainly work in silver now and this part of my making is a bit of a mystery to me. The bezel thicknesses I usually work with are between 0.3 and 0.6 mm. I'm also curious how makers avoid scratching the stone which seems a tricky task.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210306/88febe330a6ff3095b3fdf3b885b2ddb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210306/eaef791bde0fd597ac73047c61582d7f.jpg

Sent from my BTV-W09 using Tapatalk

[Dennis]

You can use a narrow square graver, but they need setting up, sharpening and keeping sharp.
However if you are not used to using them, you might find it easier to use half round needle files which have been ground and polished along the side nearest the stone.
Hard and medium stones will resist marking, if you are careful not to go on too long or too hard, but soft stones will inevitably become grooved.
The only way out is to make a close fitting bezel, and finish the edge before setting. Then continue with a burnisher, and/or soft silicone points.

It's always a good idea to have the bezel height correct before setting, rather than carve it down afterwards. In your examples they are a fraction too high. Dennis.

[Goldsmith]

I use a scorper with a polished cutting face to cut and clean up bezel settings.

12914

James

[alastairduncan]

I use a scorper with a polished cutting face to cut and clean up bezel settings.

Me too. Sometimes I also use a polished spitstick occasionally. I find that good magnification helps as well.

[Steved]

I use a scorper with a polished cutting face to cut and clean up bezel settings.

12914

JamesGreat, thanks for your answer.

Sent from my BTV-W09 using Tapatalk

[Steved]

Me too. Sometimes I also use a polished spitstick occasionally. I find that good magnification helps as well.Ok, these will be on my shopping list.

Sent from my BTV-W09 using Tapatalk

[Steved]

You can use a narrow square graver, but they need setting up, sharpening and keeping sharp.
However if you are not used to using them, you might find it easier to use half round needle files which have been ground and polished along the side nearest the stone.
Hard and medium stones will resist marking, if you are careful not to go on too long or too hard, but soft stones will inevitably become grooved.
The only way out is to make a close fitting bezel, and finish the edge before setting. Then continue with a burnisher, and/or soft silicone points.

It's always a good idea to have the bezel height correct before setting, rather than carve it down afterwards. In your examples they are a fraction too high. Dennis.I really appreciate the sound advice. I am still at the stage where I'm afraid of having my bezel to low and no being able to catch the stone. I'm basically guessing and I know theoretically a shorter bezel would be fine, if not better, but I afraid to waste all that time just to have to remake it again.cheers.

Sent from my BTV-W09 using Tapatalk

[china]

It is a much simpler exercise to make the bezel correct rather than having to cut all the excess away with a graver, using the graver should basically be a clean up operation.

[misspond]

No need to guess when you're making a bezel, take a look at your stone and see where the curve starts. This infographic from Lucy Walker is useful 12916

[Steved]

It is a much simpler exercise to make the bezel correct rather than having to cut all the excess away with a graver, using the graver should basically be a clean up operation.Yes, I wouldn't consider cutting away excess bezel.

Sent from my BTV-W09 using Tapatalk

[Steved]

No need to guess when you're making a bezel, take a look at your stone and see where the curve starts. This infographic from Lucy Walker is useful 12916Thanks. I can't read it but I will try and find the original.

Sent from my BTV-W09 using Tapatalk

[misspond]

Thanks. I can't read it but I will try and find the original.

Sent from my BTV-W09 using Tapatalk

Yes, sorry about that, I couldn't fine a better graphic for some reason. But if you Google "bezel height" and use the image tab you'll find lots of examples of how to gauge the height of a bezel for any given stone. Ideally you want to have just enough metal to push against where the curve of a stone starts and getting that right before you start soldering is key.

[Steved]

Yes, sorry about that, I couldn't fine a better graphic for some reason. But if you Google "bezel height" and use the image tab you'll find lots of examples of how to gauge the height of a bezel for any given stone. Ideally you want to have just enough metal to push against where the curve of a stone starts and getting that right before you start soldering is key.I found the original and she recommended 1mm above the beginning of the curve , which doesn't seem like a lot to me .I have the feeling it depends on the profile of the stone. So ultimately it comes down to experience and practice. Just got to put in my time.

Sent from my BTV-W09 using Tapatalk

[misspond]

I know it doesn't seem like a lot but it's really all you need. There's a definite art to using high bezels and being able to work them down in a way that looks good without all of the crinkling and wrinkling that occurs, and if that's the look you're going for then it's worth finding a way to do it so that it's aesthetically pleasing. You'd be surprised at how little metal is needed to hold a stone in place.

[Steved]

I know it doesn't seem like a lot but it's really all you need. There's a definite art to using high bezels and being able to work them down in a way that looks good without all of the crinkling and wrinkling that occurs, and if that's the look you're going for then it's worth finding a way to do it so that it's aesthetically pleasing. You'd be surprised at how little metal is needed to hold a stone in place.Well I'll be trying soon . It will be interesting. Thanks for the comment.

Sent from my BTV-W09 using Tapatalk

[Steved]

Yes, sorry about that, I couldn't fine a better graphic for some reason. But if you Google "bezel height" and use the image tab you'll find lots of examples of how to gauge the height of a bezel for any given stone. Ideally you want to have just enough metal to push against where the curve of a stone starts and getting that right before you start soldering is key.I started to follow that jeweller and she is recommending from .5mm to 1mm above the curve. I've been using between 2mm and 4 mm . I get anxiety thinking of a .5 mm bezel. I'm still going to try it.

Sent from my FIG-LX1 using Tapatalk

[Dennis]

The idea is to show off the beauty of the stone, and not to obscure it with metal.

A final measurement (after finishing) of O.5mm above the start of a curve can be sufficient to hold in a cabochon, because it is difficult to get any purchase on a dome to dislodge it.

But you're right to worry. A 0.5mm tall bezel strip will be very hard to set, particularly with solder at the base.

To remedy that, an experienced jeweller would use a taller bezel where possible, and lift up the stone with a jump ring. If there is a back plate no soldering is required, and the jump ring does not even have to be fully closed. Dennis.

[china]

It is one of most misunderstood processes when setting with bezels it is surprising just how little you you require to hold the stone.

[theresa]

I use a scorper with a polished cutting face to cut and clean up bezel settings.

12914

James

James - your work is always perfect, I have yet to see any flaws. Wonderful

[misspond]

Yes, you don't need a 0.5mm bezel, just 0.5mm from were the stone starts to curve. I have some very flat rose cut slices where the side of the stone is around 1mm or less, they can be set with a bezel that's just over 1mm high made from slightly flattened fine silver wire, but for regular cabochons I'd be very surprised if they started to curve from the base and didn't need a little bit of height in the bezel. Just to reiterate, it was the visual representation of what to look for that I was trying to get across with the graphic I posted earlier in the thread.