Blackened stamping on rings

[Loulou]

Hi there,

Does anybody know what could be used to black stamping on rings? I know about liver of sulphur and also about the impressart paste you can use. The paste seems to be no longer available, just the pen but I find this doesn't blacken out stamping as well as the paste.

I'm wondering if there is something I could use on rings that is going to be long lasting? Obviously with rings, people are going to be washing their hands whilst wearing the rings and I just wondered if there was a more durable alternative to liver of sulphur or impressart paste/pen?

I have twisted ring a friend bought me from way back and the grooves of the twist are blackened out with something. It's definitely not liver of sulphur and I'm pretty sure it cannot be the impressart paste as I think it would have worn off by now but it's stayed black in those parts for years even with showering/bathing etc. I'm not looking to do this particular ring as such but I would like to be able to do stamped/engraved rings knowing that the blackened out parts are going to last.

Would be grateful if anyone could advise?
Many thanks
Lou x

[china]

Enamel, would be the most long lasting I can think of otherwise dyed epoxy e.g. Araldite, same process fill valleys and smooth off the hills

[Ruedeleglise]

What a good idea! What do you use to dye Araldite please?
David.


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[china]

I use Lamp black powder ( I do not know if it is true Lamp black) because I have it (Inherited from my father a little goes a long way) although any artist supply will will have a suitable pigment in powder form that can be used, if you are really dedicated, light up a kero lamp or similar catch the carbon from the flame on a ceramic tile and scrape it off, and you have genuine lamp Black.
P.S. You don't have to restrict yourself to black.

[Ruedeleglise]

Thanks.


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[alastairduncan]

There's lots of different ways to apply patina to engraving. I came across a post on Steve Lindsay's engraving forum recently, he was replying to a query which I found interesting.

https://www.engravingforum.com/showthread.php?t=13412


He has a wealth of experience blackening engraving.

Edit: I've checked the links which are on the post and they now seem dead! Don't you just love the internet. I have seen elsewhere the use of printers ink/pigment for engraving so that may be worth exploring.

[CJ57]

What a good idea! What do you use to dye Araldite please?
David.



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Back in the day we used ground ebony dust, more recently I’ve used crushed drawing pastels because it was all I had. I’ve used powdered dyes in the past too

[ps_bond]

Interesting point about Rustoleum; I've not seen that so much with Humbrol enamel, which is more readily available in the UK. I have found that the eco-friendly printing inks are very, very slow to dry.

Sandi Sturgeon advocates powder coat mixed in with (Rustoleum IIRC) paint and heated, which sounds like a recipe for powder coat plastic blooming everywhere although it would increase the pigment...

[alastairduncan]

I also came across this post a few days ago but found it difficult to find again.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CLCSD-CFUtu/

The ink used here is gamblin
https://www.google.com/search?q=gamblin+etching+ink

The ink Steve Lindsay recommend is Cranfield.

https://www.cranfield-colours.co.uk/printmaking-inks/relief-inks/

[Loulou]

Thank you China, I will look into this.

[Loulou]

Thank you Alastair, I will take a look.

[Loulou]

Thanks Alastair - yes some of the links didn't work but others did. They give a link to the Rio Grande site to a product called "Midas Background Antique and Solvent Kit" but when you click on the info for this it says "WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including carbon-black extracts, methanol, silica, crystalline (airborne particles of respirable size), titanium dioxide, toluene, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, birth defects or other reproductive harm " I wouldn't want to use anything toxic but thanks for the share. I'm going to keep looking at other options.

[Loulou]

Hi China,

On your earlier response you mentioned about using a dyed epoxy and pigment. I had a look for the pigment and found some here: https://www.jacksonsart.com/jackson-a-a-s-artist-a-pigment-a-lamp-black-intense-pbk6-50g-in-200ml-jar?channable=0044a5696400313734343036d2&___store=jacksonsart_en&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3oXc-O6K7wIVEO7tCh04-QErEAQYASABEgJNt_D_BwE

Do you mean just mixing the power around with Araldite and wiping it into the stamping?

Thanks
Louise

[Loulou]

Thanks Caroline - do you mix the dust and with Araldite or Epoxy together and do you find it long lasting? It's probably just being a moron but there seems to be a lot of different glues out there (another thing on my list to look at) :o)

[china]

Louise yes just a add small amount of the pigment into the epoxy when you mix it, and then into the lower section of the stamping that you wish to keep the colour, the bits you accidently put where you don't want it can be removed by scraping with a small blade then polish as you would a stained (liver of sulfur) piece. I would not be too concerned with California labeling, it is basically to cover the state against lawsuits it is on pretty much everything even human soap, my mate was over there a couple of years ago and purchased a pair of expensive sunglasses that carried the same waring. Just normal PPE would most likely be ok.

There is also this alternative, more an enamel alternative https://www.miniaturesweethk.com/collections/resin.

[Loulou]

Thanks China, I am definitely going to give this a go with the glue. Will any glue be OK? There seems to be quite a few different types. I'm going to do a trial ring for myself first and see how it goes washing my hands with it on. I'm sure it will work, I just need to make sure I do it right that's all.

Thanks I'll also take a look at that enamel. I have bought 3 different types so far :)

Oh I see it has added one of me pics. I was trying to upload 3 just to show you but it only uploaded one. This was one I found on eBay which was terrible and the other 2 are impressart but I don't think they are long lasting to be honest.

[CJ57]

Thanks Caroline - do you mix the dust and with Araldite or Epoxy together and do you find it long lasting? It's probably just being a moron but there seems to be a lot of different glues out there (another thing on my list to look at) :o)

Yes just mix the araldite and add whatever colour you want and mix in well. I’ve never used it for the purpose you have though but as larger scale infils in place of proper resins. My feeling is that whatever you you use for a twist ring in use it will oxidise naturally and if you don’t physically scrub it out with cleaner it’ll stay. I’d need to see the ring to decide what I’d fill it with if anything

[china]

I use Araldite because it is readily obtainable and seems to be just as good as some of the more expensive exotic brands, just a little bit at a time to get the "feel for it'
The UV cure gear is basically the same as the dentist use for your teach these days. Only issue I had with that (purchased a starter kit) is torch lasted about 10mins the replacement about two days, fortunately I have a mate who runs the Aust and NZ division of Future lighting, now I have a UV light akin to Sun on my bench

[Loulou]

Hi Caroline,

Thanks for your reply, really appreciate it!
The twisted ring was just an example I was using as the ring I have has stayed black for a long time.
What I am planning to blacken out is a basic ring with stamped letters on it. At the minute I just stamp on the inside and leave the finish natural but I would like to do inside and/or outside of the ring and darken it out without it washing off when people wash their hands. The letters I use are about about 1.5mm high. Hope that's enough info. Is this what you would do to darken the stamping?

Thanks,
Louise

[Loulou]

Thanks so much for your reply China, you've been really helpful.

[Dennis]

I have watched this thread develop and have not joined in because I dont do stamping.
However as one who likes to keep things simple, I can't help wondering why anyone would want to mix their own black epoxy, when single jars of black efcolour enamel are readily available from Cookson, or Metal Clay.
It is fixed in a kitchen oven, for three minutes at 150 degrees C, or by using their inexpensive tealight heater. Being a powder, it should be easier to control too.
http://www.metalclay.co.uk/efcolor-cold-enamel-stove-set/ Dennis.

[china]

The main reason I have not used it is because I had never heard of it. The UV is also very tough

[Loulou]

Hi Dennis,

Thanks for your input. I suppose people have different ways and methods. I have never done enamelling before and would have never thought this would be how you would darken letters stamped on rings. In the videos I have watched, the people are enamelling a full surface like in the video link.
I'm completely guessing that you would have do the the enamelling on the finished article i.e. the ring all made up? If that's the case, I'm not quite sure how it would work? Wouldn't it just spread all over and not just in the cracks of the stamping?

Please bear with me and my limited knowledge on certain subjects. I have mastered certain silversmithing techniques but I have a LOT more to learn and am constantly researching.

Thanks,
Louise

[china]

With enamel you can make up a liquid with distilled water and various other liquids I have seen over the years and apply only where you want it, it can be ground down and re polished as well. probably not beginner stuff though , there is a whole new world to discover with enamel.
I will obtain some of the efcolour and play with it, can't seem to find a supplier in Oz so I will try Cookson trouble is when ever I order from Cookson I have have to 6-7 weeks for it to arrive.
Just to add if you make a liquid to apply you need to wait for it to completely dry before you fire.

[alastairduncan]

EFColor enamel is not a vitreous enamel I'm not sure you can mix with water but there is an adhesive which can be used(it may be water based). It is a thermoplastic resin so doesn't need a high temp, typically 150C.