Does anyone know the composition of gold alloys currently being sold in the UK/EU?

[C.G.]

Hello,

Question is in the title. :-)

Essentially, I’m trying to find out if nickel is still commonly being used in gold alloys, such as the material available here at Cookson’s. I did email them directly, but they wouldn’t give me that information, and just said they are in compliance with the EU nickel directive, which is not particularly helpful. Why doesn’t anyone list the actual composition of the alloy they are selling?

The jewellery I make is specifically marketed to people with nickel allergy. Most of what I sell at the moment is titanium and argentium silver, but I would love to add some small gold items as well. To do this, though, I need to source nickel free gold.

I am aware of the EU nickel directive, but it is really quite flawed. The nickel is not *supposed* to leach out of stainless steel, for example, but it does (causes a reaction every time I wear earrings with “surgical steel” posts, so I don’t anymore).

If anyone has any info on common practices in making gold alloys (not white gold - I know to avoid that stuff), I’d appreciate it. I do test all my metals with a nickel test solution, but since gold is expensive, I’d like to have an idea what I’m likely to be getting before purchasing.

Thanks in advance!

[china]

They won't give you their formula's because they are a trade secret, although they should and I believe they are compelled to state if any of their alloys contain nickel, most gold alloy's that I am aware of do not contain nickel with the exception of white gold
which I believe in some cases does contain a small amount, white is always rhodium plated so it is usually not a issue so long as the owner has it regularly re plated ( still don't understand why any one would want white gold)

[ps_bond]

The tech section of the Cooksons site certainly used to list the specific makeup of each alloy. I haven't looked at it (or indeed, for it) in a while, admittedly.
18ct NF white, for example, explicitly states that it is nickel-free (as does Aa225), while Aa245 says it contains nickel but is compliant with EN1811:2011 for skin contact but not for piercing posts.

[C.G.]

I believe they are compelled to state if any of their alloys contain

Unfortunately not. They only have to comply with the law. The EU Nickel Directive has some sort of standard test for nickel release, and if it passes that, it is compliant (regardless of whether the alloy has nickel in it). Sadly, real-world interactions with people’s skin often have different results.

[C.G.]

The tech section of the Cooksons site certainly used to list the specific makeup of each alloy. I haven't looked at it (or indeed, for it) in a while, admittedly.

Just had a look. Nothing like that there. :-(

[C.G.]

( still don't understand why any one would want white gold)

Me neither. :-D

[pearlescence]

But they do..

[ps_bond]

( still don't understand why any one would want white gold)

Because it was a cheaper alternative to platinum.
Then the price of palladium spiked and it's cheaper to have platinum instead...

[china]

That's true but why not just go for silver, you don't have to keep plating it.

[pearlescence]

That's true but why not just go for silver, you don't have to keep plating it.

I've heard of white gold vermeil too, but never found a reliable source

[art925]

Depending on what it is you want to make, make your own gold alloy from pure gold and perhaps pure silver or pure copper, you will find recipes online then you know the composition is free from nickel.

[C.G.]

Depending on what it is you want to make, make your own gold alloy from pure gold and perhaps pure silver or pure copper, you will find recipes online then you know the composition is free from nickel.

If I were planning on doing a lot of it, that would be a good way forward, but honestly I’m mostly looking for some small quantities of wire in various gauges, maybe some findings, and matching solder. Making my own wire isn’t something I currently have the tooling for.

[C.G.]

I guess the best plan is to buy some small samples and test them. I was hoping there were some “standard” recipes in use for alloys that were known...guess not.

[china]

There are many standard formulas however unless you are buying it bullion form, you will find that each manufacturer will tweak the formula to make it there own.
.