Collet Blocks

[Richard]

Hello,

I am starting out with jewellery making, my main interest being rings. This is my first post here so hello.

Please could someone explain the difference between 17 and 28 degree collet forming tools, and how do I know which one I need?

many thanks,
Richard

[Dennis]

It is mainly a matter of appearance, but on the whole the 17° one is the most useful.
They are far from intuitive to use, so have a look here. Dennis.
https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&channel=trow&q=how+to+use+a+jewellers+collet+plate

[Paul Kay]

IMO, I am in agreement with Dennis, start with a 17° round one. Once happy with using that one, you will know whether the different angled ones and 'exotic' shapes will be useful for your design. The most important thing is to take your time shaping the collet in the block and anneal often. You will see online differing opinions on how to start off your tapering, especially if you are starting with pre-made tube rather than a cut, bent and soldered cone. Some will advise starting on the block with the punch to open out the tube before shaping it in the block, and indeed I successfully followed this approach for some time. You do need to be careful not to blunt your punch with this method. Others go straight for placing a tube length in the block and using the punch exclusively from the outset. These days I get my best results (at least for my current usage) by placing the length of tube in a hole so that it lies just proud of the block and very carefully tapping it into the block with a mallet in order to create a reducing taper of the bottom end first using smaller and smaller holes and annealing in between. Only then do I finish the collet off by using the punch to taper the broad end and the overall length of the collet.

[Richard]

Thank you Dennis and Paul for your helpful advice. I'll get a 17 degree one to start with.