Create this stunning stone set Sterling Silver ring in just a matter of hours. The beautiful Labradorite stone can easily be replaced to suit your style. We personally love this stone and we think this would make a perfect gift for a loved one.

Step 1

WRAP AND CUT YOUR WIRE
Take your Sterling Silver bezel wire, wrap it around your stone and cut it using tin snips or side cutters.

Step 2

SOLDER AND CLEAN YOUR BEZEL WIRE
Ensure that your stone fits perfectly, add flux and solder the bezel wire together using hard older and a blowtorch. Clean the bezel in warm pickle, rinse and dry. Make sure the ends of your bezel wire meet flush. If not, you can file them and re-align. Do not put metal tweezers in the safety pickle as this can contaminate it. Use plastic tweezers to remove any items from the pickle. To keep your pickle warm, use a slow cooker or pickling unit (999 AFD). Remember:
safety pickle is a hazardous chemical and appropriate precautions should be taken.

Step 3

ADJUST THE WIRE AND BEZEL ONTO THE DISC, SOLDER AND CLEAN
Place the bezel on the Sterling Silver disc blank. Wrap some beaded wire around the bezel, and cut the wire using side cutters. Add flux, and solder the wire and the bezel to the disc. Clean the bezel in warm pickle, rinse and dry. You could also use solder paste.

Step 4

CUT YOUR WIRE LENGTH
Cut your desired length of ‘D’ section Sterling Silver wire using a piercing saw, against a bench peg. To work out the length of wire, you could measure your finger using string, taking into account the metal thickness. You can also use
online calculators or guides.

Step 5

BEND YOUR WIRES
Use your pliers to bend the wires round back on themselves and join them up to meet flush. If your wire edges do not meet flush, file a little metal away.

Step 6

SOLDER, QUENCH AND PICKLE YOUR RING
Add a little flux and small piece of hard solder to the join of your ring and heat evenly using a blowtorch on top of a soldering block. Quench the ring in water and put it in warm acid pickle to clean. Remove the ring from the pickle, rinse and dry. Your solder will flow to the hottest part of the Silver so it’s important to make your join hot.

Step 7

SHAPE YOUR RING
Place your ring on a ring mandrel and hammer using a mallet until round.

Step 8

MARK AND FILE YOUR RING
Mark on your ring where the bezel will sit, then file away the section of where you have marked. Cut away the middle section using your bench peg for support and your piercing saw to cut. Ideally, you should file away and cut the area
where your solder join is.

Step 9

SOLDER YOUR BEZEL AND RING TOGETHER, AND CLEAN
Place your bezel face down on a heat proof brick and use tweezers or a third hand to hold the ring shank in place on the back of the bezel. Flux the ends of your ring and solder to the bezel, using easy solder and your blowtorch. Quench the ring in water and put it in warm acid pickle to clean. Remove your ring from the pickle, rinse and dry.

Step 10

OXIDISE YOUR RING
Oxidise (blacken) your ring using platinol or liver of sulphur, carefully following the instructions on the containers. Gently brush the sides of the ring to reveal the beaded detail using fine emery paper or an abrasive sponge. Chemicals
such as platinol and liver of sulphur can be dangerous and protective equipment must be worn when handling.

Step 11

ADD YOUR STONE INTO THE BEZEL
Using a ring clamp or vice to hold your ring in place, put your stone in the bezel and push the bezel wire over the stone using a blunt instrument. Protect your ring by covering the inside of your clamp with leather or a cloth.

Step 12

SHINE YOUR FINISHED RING
Add a smooth sheen to your finished ring by gently rubbing it with a polishing cloth.

Your finished piece

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Author: Sian Brown
Written by

Sian Brown

Sian has been hand making her award winning jewellery in the West Midlands for over 12 years. Sian spent 10 years in Birmingham’s historic Jewellery Quarter before relocating to a quiet Worcestershire village.