Yes, bevel until the upper rim has a knife edge and you will reduce the amount of work once the stone is set
However it is a matter of choice and style. You could prefer to have a flat topped rim. A saw cut rim just finished with a burnisher is yet a different effect.
That's what I was getting at - whether the bevelling was mainly preference or an absolute necessity to set the stone effectively . The haematite ring is gorgeous btw!
Those are lovely Dennis!
Yes Cooksons are pretty accurate at cutting, certainly enough for what you need as you will need to finish the height yourself anyway as Dennis says.
Thanks Sarah, the strips came today and I'm amazed, 2.99mm by my calipers and perfectly parallel! The width is actually more accurate than the thickness!
Well I'm not finished yet, but just to say, that's way better! I've used the 0.4mm cut sheet (as it actually measured 0.45 so it seemed like a good starting point) and it soldered perfectly
Thanks again
Faith
I'm soldering my lovely new bezel to a 1.5mm round wire ring. I'll file a little flat bit with mitre jig, but I've been struggling to support the ring while soldering. the third hand holds steady centred on back of bezel but it's very hard to get the ring exactly vertical. I've had to reflow the solder every time I've done it before to true the angle and the extra heating and pressure has dented the bezel back a tiny bit.
In the absence of any other idea I was planning to dip the flat bit in borax, position (hope it will balance) and very carefully dry the flux to hold it. Then add palions and solder it. I'll test that first but just wondering if there are any better tips.
I would melt the solder onto the back of the bezel first, reflux everything and place on the ring and remelt the solder onto the ring.
Hope that makes sense
Hi Sarah,
Okay so like a sweat soldering approach, how would you support the ring shank though? I think I'd struggle to hold it, and I can't seem to keep it straight (perfectly vertical) with my third hand?
Many thanks
Faith
This is a crucial part Faith, because there is nothing worse than a crooked result. So you must be sure the bezel cup is right in place before you solder.
A simple way is binding wire, put over and under and twisted on both sides until it just holds. This will allow you to adjust the position before finally tightening a bit more. It can be frustrating, because the wire breaks and can also mark you work if too tight. So another learning curve.
Another way is to make soldering clamps, like the greenish one top right in the picture. You can buy the material here or use 1.0mm stainless steel sheet:http://tamizan.co.uk/knew-concept-saws/
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