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Thread: Soldering!

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
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    4

    Default Soldering!

    I'm sorry if this has been asked before I have read similar posts and searched for answers but I am new to all this malarky!
    Im having problems when soldering somtimes it goes really easy other days Arrrggghhhh!! so more than likely my technique, but sometimes the solder balls rather than flows? I am thinking this is because the piece is not hot emough? I have a little second hand blazer torch and decided to get a Sievert needle flame kit on propane but it doesnt seem to be as good as the old hand held torch really disapointed in it!
    Any one else found this? In fact on several occasions I have fired both of them up and used together, I have only really made bangles and a few rings but finding it quite frustrating to get the solder to flow everything has been cleaned and fluxed, I got a charcoal block and made a sheltered little corner to try and contain the heat more I am at a bit of a loss as to what to try next. I tried the paste solder in easy but even that just seems to burn and not flow can any one please advise. Thanks.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Rural Somerset, between Yeovil and Shepton Mallet
    Posts
    201

    Default Soldering!

    I am by no means as experienced as many on here, and like you had a few problems with my early attempts at soldering but offer the following:-
    1. Make sure that the two surfaces being soldered are absolutely clean - freshly filed or sawed
    2. Make sure they are in VERY close contact, actually touching, not nearly touching along the whole of the surfaces to be joined
    3. Well flux both pieces and also the solder chip place the chip (or chips) on the join as required, don't over use the solder, excess will just need to be filed off aftwrwards
    4. Set up the pieces as stably as possible and then start heating GENTLY at first to dry the flux
    5 do NOT heat the actual solder but the two pieces NEAR to the solder - preferably turn the light off so you can see the metal colour better, and when the flux clears and the metal is just starting to turn pink THEN heat the solder and it should flow
    6 remember the melted solder will flow towards the hottest spot so move the flame around to make sure the solder flows fully into the joint
    7 Do NOT get frustrated and try to shortcut by "forcing" the solder to melt, it WON'T work.

    I have the sievert mini torch as well and it works really well but not on large items, so i also bought the larger nozzle that fits on the same handle which also works on bigger items.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by BarryM; 29-08-2014 at 03:56 PM.
    Barry the Flying Silversmith👍

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Exeter, Devon
    Posts
    1,803

    Default

    I know when solder balls the two surfaces are not hot enough. My old torches were hand held ones, one was a cooks torch, the other is a scary refillable GoSystem 2350 which is a bit OTT. I bought a Sievert type which isn't as hot, but my fault was overheating and melting, so I am more in control now.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    England
    Posts
    1,902

    Default

    A common mistake when you are new to soldering is to assume that you heat only the area that you are soldering. I was taught to use a large soft flame, and heat the whole piece gently to bring it up to the solder flow temperature, only then would I concentrate the flame on the solder area. Remember that solder flows towards the heat, so if you want it to run, heat the area in front of the direction you want it to run. The small pencil point flames are really meant for tiny solderings such as settings on rings and jump ring solderings. If the solder doesn't flow first time, the whole job will need cleaning in pickle and re fluxing before a second attempt as firescale on a job can prevent good solder flow.

    Good luck,
    James

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    4

    Default

    Thank you every one for your replys in the end I placed the pallion on a charcoal block then the bangel on top and it did eventualy flow I think the flame is to small for what I am trying to do might have to get a different tip as it is a tiny flame is there a gas hotter than propane other than going to oxygen and propane? that could be used with the sievert? Thanks

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Cornwall
    Posts
    3,172

    Default

    I think getting a bigger tip is the best er tip! I used a Sievert for years before I got my Smiths torch and by changing the tips, I found I could get the solder to flow on most things.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Posts
    268

    Default

    Like James and Carole, and perhaps others say, the needle flame on the Sievert is really only suitable for smallish work. For bangles and larger bits you need a bit more wellie, get a larger tip/nozzle and you will probably find that you have more success! And like others said, heat the entire piece, then closer and closer to the joint, not the solder joint until right at the last minute when the pieces is up to temp for the flow to happen.

    Carin
    Carin Lindberg

    Camali Design
    www.camalidesign.com

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    79

    Default

    I really like solder paste for jobs like earring posts and getting into little spaces. I'm not the best at balancing solder pallions. I have not had the problem myself, but I understand that solder paste will burn off before it flows if you concentrate heat on it too early. So it works like any other solder, heat the whole piece first and then direct the flame at the area you want joined.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    4

    Default

    Update...brought a bigger burner and wow problem solved! thanks for the advice peeps!

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