Heart shaped bearings
Is the a procedure for cutting a heart shaped bearing either for flush or bead setting? I have been looking for a tutorial but not found one.
There are... Do you prefer mostly gravers or mostly pendant motor methods?
Well both actually, but I am better with motor at the moment, still learning my gravers
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OK, here's what I do if I'm using the motor - or a brief overview at least. You'll probably need to use gravers during it anyway, but it may be a little faster this way.
Get the outline of the stone onto the metal - if the stone is symmetric, you can stick it in place with superglue and scribe around it. Superglue accelerator & acetone are useful in doing this.
Drill the bearing and saw a taper around the outline (keeping well inside the line - pretty much the same as drilling a taper bore, but with a more complex shape).
Carve the top edge of the bearing until the stone just starts to fit.
Cut a bearing shelf with an inverted cone burr at the right depth for your stone.
Cut back the bearing shelf until it is very small - you don't need much metal to support the stone.
For any distinct ridges on the stone culet (fumbling for the technical term at the moment), carve a keel line to keep the metal clear of them.
For any sharp points, drill a small pocket into the bearing to give them clearance.
Any particularly sharp facet junctions on the pavillion, cut from just below the surface of the bearing to the pocket so that there isn't excessive pressure on them.
Cut any azures - at the very least deburr on the back face.
Seat the stone.
Incidentally - rather than put it as a separate phase, you need to check the stone fit all the way through; visual comparison, rock it and look for burnish marks on the inside of the bearing etc. etc.
Thanks Peter, that sounds like a formula for any shape, eg trilliants etc,etc.
I too have just embarked on the setting of a matched pair of garnet hearts and a complementary single stone intended for a pendant to make a little suite, but as you all know I am lazy so I have made heart shaped moulds for PMC and will shove the stones in that and roast them with my fingers crossed :0)