What's the best way to remove scribed lines from metal? So far I've used emery paper but that tends to make it difficult to see replacement lines.
Not sure there's anything you can do other than use emery paper or something similar. I'd use a sanding roll on my pendant drill, which is the same principal. Could you cover the piece in masking tape and make your marks on that?
Why do you have scribed lines you don't want?
I only say because there are non marking ways to cut / mark etc.
I never use a scribe to mark a design or a punch to mark for hole.
Fill me in with the details and I will see if I can help you avoid this problem in the future.
To cure the current problem you need to wear the metal to match the lowest point which is why you never scribe.
(Another college advised'this is what you do ' you have followed I expect)
The best thing I did was to decide to work things out for myself and now teach people my methods, simple but effective.
I never directly mark the metal. My designs are usually traced directly from my sketchbook and then I use double sided tape to stick it to the metal (when it has the plastic coating on still). That's what i do for piercing anyway. What are you doing exactly?
What a great idea Alexandra. I took to using my daughters sketching thingy to try to transfer a really difficult design onto metal, but even that was rather inadequate, and I had to finish it by eye. Think I'll try your way next time.
Yeah, its really easy cos the tracing paper is stuck so tight to the metal, it doesn't move at all when you cut through it.
For very complicated designs that I can't bear to trace, I photocopy (or scan and print) them and then stick them ono the metal.
Patterns on Metal
I either use cd permanent marker pens - fine line, to draw out the design, or for more precise saw piercing work, I print it on paper using a laser or inkjet printer and then superglue the paper straight on to the metal.
Once you have sawn out your design through the paper pattern, use your gas torch to burn the paper off - it will burn off completely, together with the superglue at around 500 deg F. - way below the temperature required to anneal silver never mind melt it. (Melting point of sterling silver is about 1640 deg F).
If you want to make two identical (handed) copies of a saw pierced item, make a sandwich using wood glue like this.
Top silver sheet,
Good quality 80gsm typing paper
Bottom silver sheet
using white PVA woodworking glue to join the sheets of metal and the sandwiched paper.
Leave it to set overnight
When it is totally dry, cut through the whole lot using the superglued pattern on the top sheet as a guide taking care to ensure your saw blade remains vertical (or the two copies will be different).
While sandwiched together, complete the rough finish filing before separating.
To separate - stick the whole lot in a sink of warm water, the water will penetrate the paper layer allowing the two copies to be separated. Rub off any remaining PVA glue and flame off the pattern.
Finish the two (hopefully identical) items by fine file, buff and polish remembering that the front side will be different if you are making handed earrings etc .
It's easier to do than describe!
Now that is really clever!! I would never have thought that one up! Thanks Bigwol.