To dome or not to dome?

I'm working on this silver bracelet with various roll-printed textures, and I'm trying to decide whether to dome the discs or leave them flat. I have a wooden dapping set and have managed to successfully dome a couple of copper pieces but this is the first silver piece I started and I'm a bit terrified of messing it up!

Any opinions/sympathy/kicks to the backside welcome...

Attachment 3521
(not the greatest picture but hopefully gives the idea. toggle not finished yet - planning to add balls on the ends)

I love the textures, I wouldn't dome, because it will detract from the touchy feely aspect. Just my opinion for what its worth.

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Originally Posted by eirish

I'm working on this silver bracelet with various roll-printed textures, and I'm trying to decide whether to dome the discs or leave them flat. I have a wooden dapping set and have managed to successfully dome a couple of copper pieces but this is the first silver piece I started and I'm a bit terrified of messing it up!

Any opinions/sympathy/kicks to the backside welcome...

Attachment 3521
(not the greatest picture but hopefully gives the idea. toggle not finished yet - planning to add balls on the ends)

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I'd dome. A little form to go with the textures and you've got something that has more volume (literally and figuratively) than leaving them flat. If you do, dome into rubber to protect the textures though - either line the block with some or just dome straight into a block of firm rubber.

I'm with Peter on this I would definitely dome them, and hmmm what it is to go wrong? Not really sure how you could mess it up. Doming not only gives that extra volume but the difference it makes to the way the light catches the pieces is well worth the added bit of effort.

I'd dome too. With a wooden doming block, you shouldn't need to line it either.

Dome them!! (for all the above reasons). But don't forget it will reduce the diameter of your discs which will need to be compensated for to get the desired length.

Dome them with the texture on the convex side and anneal first to reduce the amount of whacking needed. But...

But I don't think the single punch provided with the wooden doming block is that good for doming evenly, so I would buy, beg borrow or steal some proper wooden dapping punches for this.

In fact I do lots of roll texturing and routinely dome with wood in a brass cube (which has a better choice of hollows), with negligible loss of definition. If you are worried, a patch of masking tape on the disk gives more protection. Dennis.

I'd dome them too. If you change your mind, you can always flatten them again (after annealing) with a hide mallet.

Dome the pieces, it will add more value to your final piece.

Les

Thank you so much for all the helpful replies! Lots of good advice here - I'm going to heed it and have a go at doming them. :) I'm rather paranoid about getting more firescale (having already spent ages sanding out the firescale from earlier annealings), but I just got some Argotect and I need to get a charcoal block anyway to make the balls for the toggle bar.

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Originally Posted by caroleallen

I'd dome them too. If you change your mind, you can always flatten them again (after annealing) with a hide mallet.

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Thank you - I can't believe I'd forgotten I could flatten them if it all goes horribly wrong. Having an "undo" button always makes me feel better!

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Originally Posted by Dennis

But I don't think the single punch provided with the wooden doming block is that good for doming evenly, so I would buy, beg borrow or steal some proper wooden dapping punches for this.

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That's one thing I was worried about. Alas I've nowhere to beg, borrow or steal from, so it will have to be buy - would these do or should I stretch the overstretched tool budget a bit more and get a proper-er set?

http://www.palmermetals.co.uk/shop/t...aping-set.html

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If you are worried, a patch of masking tape on the disk gives more protection. Dennis.

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Masking tape, check. I've already gone through stacks of the stuff to protect the textures and hold onto the pieces while sanding down the back sides. I think it's my favourite tool.

The doming punches from Palmer metals are quite a limited selection and I worry about the edges, although you could file them. These I think are better value (half way down the page) http://www.manchesterminerals.co.uk/...d_Punches.html.
Dennis.

I don't know whether this is any help but I do quite a bit of roller texturing and doming and I like very shallow domes. I got a woodturner to make me a concave block which is much shallower than anything you can buy and I use a bossing mallet on the metal.

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Originally Posted by Dennis

The doming punches from Palmer metals are quite a limited selection and I worry about the edges, although you could file them. These I think are better value (half way down the page) http://www.manchesterminerals.co.uk/...d_Punches.html.
Dennis.

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Yes, I saw those - my concern is that they only go up to 25 mm, which is the diameter of my discs and much smaller than any of the depressions in my block. Doesn't seem like that much of an advantage over using the punches I have.

These would be better size-wise but are quite a bit more:
http://www.hswalsh.com/Hardwood-Punc...x?i=TP105&t=49

Hmmmm.

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Originally Posted by sparkles

I don't know whether this is any help but I do quite a bit of roller texturing and doming and I like very shallow domes. I got a woodturner to make me a concave block which is much shallower than anything you can buy and I use a bossing mallet on the metal.

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Interesting - very shallow is what I'm thinking as well. I'd love to see pictures of your work if you have any.