Expanding a ring

Hello,

I am just wondering how I would go about expanding a Sapphire and Emerald ladies ring...without removing the stones ?

I was thinking that perhaps if I up ended the ring and using a no oxy flame ,held the ring in a third hand ,if this would minmalise any heat transference to the stones ?

Alternatively, if I put the ring on a charcoal block bar and elevated the back end so the stones are lower than the back of the shank, would this work ?

The lady has asked that I expand the ring 5 sizes

Thank you for reading this

I wouldn't risk it personally without removing the stones.

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Originally Posted by enigma

I wouldn't risk it personally without removing the stones.

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That was a reservation that I had, removing the stones was my only thought ,however this would price the job up and the woman is not that flush with cash ,she said it had real sentimental value, so I took it on. I also considered a soft solder using a blowpipe and a reguilding of 9ct but I've never used the blowpipe...I've only watched my on holiday collugue use it. He's back on Saturday, she's going back home tomorrow...so no pressure !

I think that's quite a big ask without removing the stones as well. There are the roller style resizers that can be used with stone set rings, but without annealing, I think you'd struggle to get more than a couple of sizes up, certainly not five.

If there's enough metal available, would she consider simply having the shank split and opened (smoothing off all edges obviously) to wear as an adjustable until she can afford to have it done properly?

Id say that Mizgeorge's idea or unsetting the stones too as the best ways forward.

If the sapphire is of a high quality and if enough care is taken, like rubies, it'll probably withstand a bit of heat but not the Emerald.

Alternatively... if you know someone with a PUK / Laser welder then upping it five sizes would be a simple enough task depending on the settings.

Nick

Sometimes, but a large jump in size can need modification to the setting as well to keep the curvature fairly even.
Still, the laser makes a lot of this stuff quite easy - although you have to be more careful around coloured stones than diamonds; the colour invariably means the heat from the laser is more readily absorbed.
Rodico (or Blutak in a pinch) and small reflectors to cover the stone make life a bit less fraught.

Interesting ideas about the PUK....I half fancy trying one but the initial outlay is something that puts me off. I get the price will become incidental over time but if I can't get on with it, then the costs will hit me pretty hard. Is there any training programs for or hire of PUK machines that will, if you like give me a taster/feel for investing in a PUK ? I do see a massive advantage in a PUK over flame in certain instances but I am rather old school in my thinking...but if it's progress then maybe the advantages will become my advantage ?

I know Brum does a Summer school on laser use, not sure about PUK. Sutton/Betts do demos on them; they may well do one at IJL.
They are not a complete substitute for soldering but there are some things they do extremely well & problems they can solve more time efficiently than other methods.