View Full Version : setting round stone in tapered setting
30-06-2011, 02:17 PM
I am trying to set a round blue topaz in a tapered setting, however I cannot keep the stone straight. Every time I push the bezel over, the stone pops out or becomes misaligned. Is there a special trick to keep the stone in place?
Thank you :-)
30-06-2011, 02:51 PM
I know the feeling... I get the same thing happen when I'm raising grains over stones if I lift the grain too far without an opposing one.
I'm not entirely sure what you mean by a tapered setting though? Is this a thin-walled bezel? It might be that you're trying to push the bezel too far, in that case - working the bezel over progressively can help; a fingernail holding the stone in place can discourage it moving. Is there a bearing shelf of some sort to support the stone?
30-06-2011, 03:14 PM
Without seeing your setting it's difficult to suggest a method. But if it is just a conical rub over setting, then one way is to use a pair of smooth faced flat pliers, just
squeeze the top edge of the setting, holding the pliers with the jaws open directly over the setting with the stone in place, then gently squeeze the setting over, this method squeezes opposite sides at the same time, keeping the stone level. I would do this twice so that the setting grips the stone in four opposite places before actually starting the rub over setting process.
30-06-2011, 03:33 PM
That's similar to what I do with the occasional claw setting - I've not tried it on a bezel before though. I shall give it a go.
30-06-2011, 03:34 PM
Hi, Thank you for your replies. I am sorry I am not being clear (as usual :-)). Yes, the setting is a plain conical one, which I made myself. I wouldn't say the walls are too thin, they look approx 0.6. I have tried everything I could think of today, but didn't try the pliers tip. Will definately give it a try and report later :-).
30-06-2011, 07:42 PM
So far we are all assuming that this is a faceted stone? James has suggested moving over the edges of your collet with pliers. Some other suggestions are:
1. It is very helpful to make a slight ledge or bearer inside the collet to steady the stone, using a burr or a graver.
2. The top of the collet should be level and bevelled to a knife edge. This will also make it easier to push over.
3. There should only be a very short edge protruding above the girdle of the stone. For a stone of 5.0-6.0 mm in diameter, that would be only about one third of a millimetre.
4. Until you have secured the stone at four points as described by James, adjust the direction of your light so that you can see the table of the stone clearly. Then keep it level by pressing down with a fingernail. Dennis.
30-06-2011, 08:09 PM
Thank you for the tips - very helpful. I have actually set this one, eventually, took me approx 2 hours - still need lots of practice. I did have rather a lot of metal to push over (approx 1mm, or may be slightly more), so the third point is very handy. I will make sure that there is a very small edge next time.
11-07-2011, 08:37 PM
If you gently ease the bezel over but not all the way, then ease the bezel over directly opposite then this will go some way to hold the stone in place. Think of the bezel as a clock face. Start at the 12 o'clock then ease over at 6 o'clock, then 9 o'clock then 3 o'clock. Do not try and push the bezel over in one go. Take it easy and slowly. This way you can be sure the stone stays level.
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