View Full Version : Argotect Tips..
17-08-2010, 07:08 PM
Just recieved my shiney new tub of argotect today from cooksons.
Before I got jumping in there, does anyone have any tips for using it, which they may have discovered?
Having the worst trouble with firestain - keeping soldering as fast as poss, not overheating etc.. so hoping the argotect will help!
17-08-2010, 07:40 PM
I'm not sure argotect is going to be the only answer for with firescale problems. The right flux is more likely to be of use there. What sort of things are you having problems with?
17-08-2010, 07:55 PM
Really?! Thats what it says on the tin - I want my money back!! :D just kidding!
Im using regular borax flux, and getting horrible firestain patches - generally in the most awkward places, so its realy hard to sand & polish out. I had to oxidise the last batch I did, as I just couldnt afford to spend any more time trying to remove it!
How does the tippex work? That sounds very interesting.. Do tell me more! :)
17-08-2010, 08:16 PM
Sorry, I'm mixing up my products here - I was thinking of technoflux rather than argotect there!
I tend to use magic boric (fondly known as magic boris) for anything where I'm worried about awkward firescale, it works better for me than most other preps, even better than the expensive ceramic sprays because it's so much easier to use. Otherwise, I tend to stick to auflux.
17-08-2010, 09:08 PM
Aww, I like that name :)
So do you flux the whole piece, not just the area that is being soldered?
I have heard a few people do this, but we were always taught at college that you only flux the join.
I have a bottle of auflux too, but dont use it often -perhaps I should!
Thanks for the help - Very nice site too by the way - you must have alot of patience with the chainmaiile, but worth it, it is lovely!
17-08-2010, 09:31 PM
Well, I suppose I'll have my say even though the members will have heard it before.
Firstly Argotec is a flux, so if you paint it everywhere the solder is liable to follow.
Secondly it has a reputation for giving off toxic fumes when heated, so read the data sheet and ensure plenty of ventilation. That said, silversmiths use it routinely on larger work, where firescale would otherwise be inevitable.
Thirdly, firescale which is hardly noticed on matt and satin finishes becomes increasingly visible the higher the polish, so if you can settle for a brushed finish the problem will vanish.
Fourthly if you have the opportunity to use easy and extra easy solder, with easy flux, you can work at a lower temperature. For jewellery the difference in strength, or colour match is academic.
Lots of members speak highly of magic boric, so take note. I use a home-made version consisting of boric acid crystals from the chemist, dissolved in meths, but only to keep my metal pristine when annealing, prior to rolling and texturing. I hope you can find a grain of help in this,
Kind regards, Dennis.
17-08-2010, 09:33 PM
Thank you Dennis, much appreciated!
07-10-2010, 11:53 AM
The tub says, "mix with meths or Lissapol/Teepol. I can't abide the smell of meths but don't know where to buy the other stuff. They appear to be brand names but not available to the general public. Does anyone know what to buy that has these things in it? So far I have used Stardrops but I might get a better result with something else.
07-10-2010, 04:10 PM
Argotect is used by silversmiths when making large items such as bowls and holloware which require large torches and much more heat than jewellery. I have read that when heated the fumes are toxic, so you need good ventilation. Teepol is a common detergent/antiseptic used around institutions, especially hospitals and is available on line.
If you have read the thread above you will probably go for magic boris which many members swear by, or take alternative avoiding action.
Kind regards, Dennis.
07-10-2010, 05:47 PM
raising smallish bowls and jugs is what I am doing. I practise on heavy copper which of course needs no protection, but the silver is just too expensive to take chances with.
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