The Emerald Cut

The emerald cut is quite different from the popular brilliant cut, and was originally developed (as the name suggests) for emeralds, not diamonds. The idea behind it was to create a series of ‘steps’ and facets round the edge of a rectangular ‘table’, which would catch the flashes of light exhibited by good quality Emeralds. It has since grown significantly in popularity, and is utilised across a wide range of stones – most commonly diamonds, interestingly enough!

Diamond, Emerald Cut, G/vs, 15pt/4x3mm (61DE GE01)

An emerald cut is not intended to create the constant sparkle of a brilliant cut; instead it has fewer facets which are larger in size, to capture a dramatic ‘flash’ when each angle hits the light. In many senses you could say that this is a more elegant cut for the more discerning customer, if that doesn’t sound too pompous! Unlike the princess cut which is a perfect square shape, the emerald cut has its weakest points (the corners) taken off, so the shape itself is strong and robust. It lends itself perfectly to engagement ring designs, where the length can be used to elongate the finger creating an elegant silhouette.

The downside to emerald cut stones is that the simplicity of the cutting means that any flaws will be clearly visible. Other cuts with more facets can be used to camouflage an inferior stone or one with an inclusion, but emerald cuts require really good clarity gems to look their best. This needs to be taken into account when purchasing stones. It might be advisable to go down on the size to enable you to go up on the clarity, which will ultimately achieve a finer end result.

It terms of styling, the emerald cut is ideally suited to vintage designs, in particular those originating from the Art Deco era where straight lines and geometric patterns dominated the decorative arts of the day. You will often see emerald cuts placed in graduated designs where the stones are placed side by side to cover the top surface of the ring shank.

Conversely you will also see many stripped back, minimalist and modern designs using emerald cut stones, which can be just as impactful. In my experience it is quite interesting to note that when a potential groom chooses an engagement ring for his bride without her input, he will often opt for an emerald cut over a brilliant cut. Personally, I think this is because the straight lines appeal to more masculine and less frivolous tastes.

Sterling Silver Ring with Emerald Cut Blue Topaz and Diamond (VRS 211P)

In terms of cost, fewer facets equal less working hours to produce, so an emerald cut stone is in fact one of more inexpensive designs to purchase. However as I mentioned before, the quality of the stone is paramount, with every aspect clearly on show. To this end your money needs to be invested in the colour and clarity, which effectively cancels out the lower cutting costs, so there is really no short cut to a good quality stone!

Whether you prefer vintage or modern styling, an emerald cut can be an interesting stone to design with – so if you have yet to experience the joys of this particular cut, why not give one a try.

To add an emerald cut diamond to one of your upcoming designs, why not explore the range available at Cooksongold as well as our collection of emerald cut settings to hold the stone? Or, to discover more about the brilliant cut, read our blog post on this popular type of cut used for diamonds here.

Share this article: