Jewellery Making Supplies Blog

First and foremost, this is a book about cold fixing techniques or ‘cold connections’. Its focus is on what can be achieved without the use of heat and is therefore instantly suitable for beginners and hobbyists. Written in a ‘classroom style’ format, the text is concise but comprehensive and includes some valuable tips which are often overlooked.

The introduction covers the basics; materials, tools, techniques, findings and finishing and is a surprisingly small section.  I like quite like the fact that it is so small, as I think it makes the projects far less daunting. You can get conditioned into thinking that jewellery is such a vast subject that it becomes a bit overwhelming.  Not something you have to worry about with this book.

The techniques section basically covers sawing, riveting and chasing and that’s it! Quite a change from other texts and really goes to show just what is possible with a little knowledge. Gollberg  makes the point that practise really is the key to success. She suggests doing the same thing over and over again until perfect which is more of a Scandinavian approach to jewellery teaching and ensures a more professional finish. I particularly like her tips on sawing. She writes as though she is standing in front of you teaching which is great. Gollbergs depiction of riveting is also very well written with steps which are easy to follow and great tips and troubleshooting advice to avoid mistakes.

The remainder of the text (approx.70 pages) is divided into a series of projects which illustrate the diversity of cold fixing.  There are 21 projects in total covering everything from bangles to rings and even a pair of stud earrings! They vary in their complexity but there are explanatory photos throughout which help to make things clearer.  Anyone with basic/intermediate jewellery knowledge should be able to tackle these projects successfully and I like the fact that some steps are left deliberately vague allowing for your own design input just as you would in a classroom environment. I have read some reviews that criticise this but I don’t agree.  Gollberg is simply providing the foundation blocks for your own creativity which is to be encouraged.

What I found interesting about this book is how your approach to designing a piece of jewellery changes as you work your way through the projects. By taking soldering out of the equation, you are forced to think differently, more innovatively about how things will be joined together. Instead of merely being functional, your joining mechanism can become decorative, more integral to the overall design which can bring about some fascinating results. It also opens up a whole new range of material options which is illustrated quite clearly by the gallery of images at the back of the book.

In conclusion I would say that ‘Making Metal Jewellery’ would be a great addition to the bookshelf of any designer working with metal. Suitable not only for beginners, but for anyone looking for a fresh approach to their work.  A surprisingly inspirational read!

This book has been reviewed by Joanna Varney.  She holds a BA (Hons) in Jewellery and Silversmithing and is part of the Cooksongold team.

(This book is available as either a student or professional edition. This review is based on the student edition.)

Described as a ‘handbook’ this text is an excellent workshop companion to all those currently studying or embarking on a career in jewellery and metalwork. The author Tim McCreight is a working metalsmith and professor and therefore has vast experience in his field, instinctively knowing what to include and perhaps more importantly, what to leave out! When dealing with such a broad subject it is easy to get bogged down in detail. McCreight doesn’t do this and instead provides an overview of each subject area and is therefore able to cover much ground!

Divided into 8 chapters, he covers Materials, Surfaces, Shaping, Joining, Casting, Stones, Mechanisms and Tools. The information given is varied and quite surprising in places, including historical references and in the Stone section, magical properties which I wasn’t expecting.  Most books deal purely with technical and factual information, so it’s refreshing to have a more rounded synopsis of the subject. Where possible individual more complex subjects for example Mokume and Reticulation are dealt with on a single page. To attempt these techniques more instruction would be needed, but you are given a clear definition of what each process involves. Each chapter mixes basic and advanced techniques into one, so the subject is dealt with as a whole, not split into different difficulty levels as with other books. The emphasis really is on overview rather than depth of information. You could almost liken it to a detailed dictionary of techniques, tools and materials.

The book contains no colour pictures but instead uses numerous black and white line drawings. These are a little simplistic in places but are adequate in terms of explanation. They are only a guide after all (I understand the Professional edition contains colour photos).

The Reference section towards the back of the book really is excellent. It contains all the usual information expected such as Alloy details, comparative weight tables and conversion charts plus a whole lot more besides. McCreight includes some great safety advice on chemicals and compounds, geometry formulas for working out the area of material needed for a job, as well as stone, saw blade and drill size details. It really is extremely comprehensive and gives you all you would need to accurately plan, prepare and price a job. It’s fantastic to have all those invaluable references in one place.

I also particularly like the Tool chapter which is written with an obvious empathy of the financial problems facing many students today. Let’s face it, metalsmithing and jewellery making can be an extremely costly hobby or profession to get into, so McCreights tips on making your own tools and even your own workbench come as a refreshing change.  He’s even gone as far to include a pull out page of stick on tabs to mark each chapter, plus a selection of different sized graph papers for planning. Even the binding has been done with the student in mind, (It is spiral bound so it will lay flat on a work bench and stay open at the desired page) making this an extremely practical, well thought out text.

With that in mind I would say that this book is an essential for any student, which is exactly the purpose for which it was intended. A great read!

To purchase your very own copy of Tim McCreight’s The Complete Metalsmith- Click here!

This book has been reviewed by Joanna Varney.  She holds a BA (Hons) in Jewellery and Silversmithing and is part of the Cooksongold team.

My initial thoughts when first opening this book were:

 
1. It’s based on the American market

 
2. It is focusing on Bead Jewellery rather than Fine Jewellery

 
DON’T LET THIS PUT YOU OFF!!!!!

 
My rather naive idea that this would not be relevant to me was quickly dispelled as I got stuck into Chapter one – First Steps. I can’t stress enough how good this first chapter is. It is packed with fantastic, down to earth advice which I feel every person considering starting their own creative business would benefit from reading! In fact there are questions posed that the self employed craftsperson needs to be reminded of again and again to ensure a successful business.

For example:  ‘The Lifestyle – Are you cut out for it?’
‘Defining your style of Jewellery’
‘Who is your Customer?’

These are vital, practical questions which need to be addressed before embarking on any new venture. They help to take you away from the emotional side of a creative business (which can sometimes be difficult) to focus on the aspects which can sometimes be overlooked. For instance, the fact that you will spend more time marketing, promoting, selling, accounting etc etc your jewellery, than you will actually spend making and designing it! This was something I did not fully appreciate until I was actually doing it! It’s rather a disheartening prospect but it is reality and you have to be prepared for it.

Lareau then moves on to discuss, ‘Building Your Portfolio’ which is perhaps a more obvious starting point for most people as it is a seemingly ‘nice’ task. She stresses the importance of creating a style and theme which will appeal to your ‘target customer’. Again great advice, and again something which many would not appreciate when first starting out. It’s far too easy to design a logo or motif which looks nice, but would be completely unrelated to your ‘target customer’.

As I read through each chapter I found I was picking up invaluable tips left, right and centre. In fact I’ve come across a few business mantras that will, without doubt be going up on the workshop wall!

The guide to pricing work is again extremely practical. Despite some of the terminology being aimed at the US market, it is still entirely suitable for the UK and gives a much more realistic approach than I was given at University. Lareau also explains clearly the difference between wholesale and retail pricing which again, is vital to get right if you are to look professional.

Throughout this book, Lareau pulls her readers sharply back into reality, providing focus and direction in bite sized chunks. The chapters are short and easy to absorb, written in plain English (American) and are easily transferable between different types of creative industries. I would say that this book is a vital read for anyone considering starting their own creative business.  I would also recommend it to anyone whose existing business has perhaps lost a little focus. The chapters will help you to reassess and evaluate your market position, take stock of your situation and strip things back to basics which we all need to do from time to time. All in all, a great read.

Click here to purchase your copy!

This is a review written by Joanne Varney who holds a BA (Hons) in Jewellery and Silversmithing and is part of the Cooksongold team.

I first came across this book when I enrolled on my Jewellery and Silversmithing course many years ago. It was one of the texts recommended by the course tutors as a good introduction and guide to, what was then a totally new subject to me. I can remember opening the book and staring for ages at the image of the jewellers bench covered in tools, thinking to myself, how am I ever going to know what to do with all those tools!

As I began to read through the book, I soon found that my initial worries began to disappear. The book can loosely be divided into 3 parts.

1st Part

As with many jewellery books, the author begins with an outline of a basic tool kit and then goes on to explain how each tool is used and for what purpose. In what makes up the first section of the book she lists 7 “Basic Techniques”, which are all demonstrated via mini projects, illustrated with numerous photos:

1. Cutting
2. Drilling
3. Filing
4. Soldering
5. Bending
6. Hammering
7. Finishing

Although some of these photos are a little dated, the projects are easy to follow and very achievable for a beginner, which keeps you motivated.  As a student it was invaluable to have these basic techniques to refer back to again and again. Once mastered, these techniques provide the cornerstones of most jewellery design regardless of the materials you are using.

2nd Part

In the next chapter, jewellery design is explained. The author firstly explains the need for design and then goes on to describe the different stages involved with taking an idea from concept to fruition.  This is excellently written and really emphasises how vital good planning is when making jewellery. A helpful section is the one covering design presentation and illustration, which you can always refer to for ideas. The painting techniques shown on pages 58 and 59 are a brilliant guide for creating simple but effective representations of metal and stones suitable to show your customers – easy to understand and not over complicated!

3rd Part

The remaining sections of the book cover what are described as  “Special Techniques” and  “Advanced Techniques”, which become more relevant as you progress and begin to specialise in one of the many different areas of jewellery making. When viewed as a whole these chapters can seem a little daunting, but you will soon start to pick out projects which can be added to your basic arsenal of techniques; for example, Making a Rub-Over Collet with a Twist Wire Decoration and Cuttlefish Casting. I found both of these techniques easy to follow and convenient since they require a limited amount of tools.

Glossary

A useful glossary of terms is included at the back of the book along with information on hallmarking, diamond weights, and costing. There is also a stone chart detailing colour, cut and hardness, plus information on different metal properties  towards the front of the book, which basically tells you all you need to know before embarking on a trip to the bullion dealers or stone merchants.

I feel the ‘Jewellery Making Manual’  offers a rigorous but accessible introduction to jewellery making. It covers a wide range of topics, but in a clear and concise way making it easy to absorb. I would recommend it to anyone contemplating jewellery either as a hobby or a career and would hope that you get as much out of it as I have.