Jewellery Making Supplies Blog

At this moment in time, the levels of patriotism throughout the country appear to be at an all time high. The bunting is out and the union jacks are everywhere as us Brits get ready to celebrate. 2012 is the momentous year that we are not only hosting the greatest games on earth, The Olympics, but we also mark our Queens Diamond Jubilee as she celebrates 60 years on the throne. The build up to the Olympics is well and truly underway, but the parties really start next weekend, as up and down the country street parties and events are planned to celebrate the Diamond Jubilee. This is a year that we will remember and fortunately as jewellers and silversmiths we are perfectly placed to provide those little mementos that people will treasure for years to come.

Queen Elizabeth II is only the second British Monarch to reign for 60 years alongside Queen Victoria who reigned for 63 years and to mark this special occasion the Assay Office have issued a commemorative hallmark which can be struck until 1^st October this year. The mark is optional and can be struck alongside the statutory hallmark by all four hallmarking offices across the country. I can’t imagine why anyone wouldn’t want this mark added to their work. Depicting a young Queen wearing an oversized crown, and placed in a diamond shape, it will really help to elevate each piece to another level.

These special commemorative marks don’t come along too often and to date there have only ever been five others: one to celebrate the Silver Jubilee of King George V in 1935, one to mark the Coronation of Queen Elizabeth II in 1953, one to mark The Queens Silver Jubilee in 1977, one to mark the Millennium in 2000 and finally the Queen’s Golden Jubilee in 2002. So you have to consider how many others there may or may not be in your lifetime. Do any of us really want to miss out on this opportunity to own a little piece of history?? Speaking as a consumer, I don’t consider myself to be particularly patriotic, but even I have purchased two commemorative silver bars for my children as I want them to them to remember such historic events.

There is really no other industry that offers what  is the oldest form of consumer protection.  Assaying and Hallmarking can be traced back as far as 1327 and has truly withstood the test of time to provide customers with a guarantee of authenticity. Now more than ever consumers need to be sure of what they are buying. Precious metal is expensive and disposable incomes are a little bit tighter for many at the moment. However, Britain has much to be proud of this year and we want to celebrate. Make the most of this limited opportunity and use this fantastic mark. Fill your customers with patriotism and ensure they don’t leave empty handed!

This article is written by Joanne Varney who holds a BA (Hons) in Jewellery and Silversmithing and is part of the Cooksongold team.

Traditionally used with dress shirts which have no buttons at the cuffs, (French cuffs), cufflinks have been used through the ages to add a decorative element to a man’s attire. Although most men won’t use them every day, nearly all will certainly own a pair of cufflinks to use on special occasions, namely weddings. Consequently the range available is huge and enormously varied in price and design.

As with most jewellery, cufflinks consist of a functional element and a purely decorative element both of which are essential for a successful piece.  A range of fittings are available, but easily the most popular and the most practical are those which have a swivelling arm which snaps into place, using a spring mechanism that stops at ninety degrees. This effectively forms the ‘stopper’ which prevents the cufflink from sliding back through the button hole and in turn this secures the cuff. The arm, which is available in a round or square section is held between a ‘u’ shaped fitting or an ‘s’shaped fitting which is the piece which is then connected to the decorative element. This can be done using solder or glue. Special care must be used when soldering near any sprung mechanism as too much heat will cause the spring to relax, effectively rendering the fitting useless. It is preferable to use medium or easy solder for this task.

If you fancy trying an alternative fitting to the swivel arm, you could opt for a simple cufflink chain. A little more traditional in style, these heavy chains (usually 5 links) provide the connecting element between the decorative plate and the ‘stopper’. The advantage  with using these chains is that you are free to add whatever style of ‘stopper’ you choose. It could be a bullet shape or a large sphere, anything really as long as it is of sufficient weight and size not to be pulled easily through the buttonhole. This way the functionality becomes integral to the design which is always good!

The last main cufflink fitting readily available is the Bar Bell design. As the name suggests, this consists of a curved bar with usually balls on both ends or one end, much like the Banana Bars used in body piercing. The scope for adding a design element to these is somewhat limited but interest can be added by using different surface finishes or by the addition of stones. A word of caution though, these fittings won’t  necessarily suit all shirt types as the ball ‘stopper’ may not be large enough to be truly secure. It’s probably best to do a little market research before using them for any commission work.

Once you have decided on the cufflink fitting, you can start work on the fun part, the decorative element. The basis of most is a shaped plate or blank which are available in a range of shapes and gauges. This is attached to the ‘u’ or ‘s’ arm, chain or bar bell and completes the cufflink. This blank should sit flush against the shirt cuff with the design facing outwards and is the part that most customers are interested in. Traditionally designs were very understated and used initials or simple enamelling but increasingly designs now reflect the individuality of the wearer and can be as quirky and witty as the imagination allows! So get creative and take advantage of this lucrative gents market by developing a cufflink range, I’m sure the results will prove very rewarding.

This book has been reviewed by Joanna Varney.  She holds a BA (Hons) in Jewellery and Silversmithing and is part of the Cooksongold team.

My initial thoughts when first opening this book were:

 
1. It’s based on the American market

 
2. It is focusing on Bead Jewellery rather than Fine Jewellery

 
DON’T LET THIS PUT YOU OFF!!!!!

 
My rather naive idea that this would not be relevant to me was quickly dispelled as I got stuck into Chapter one – First Steps. I can’t stress enough how good this first chapter is. It is packed with fantastic, down to earth advice which I feel every person considering starting their own creative business would benefit from reading! In fact there are questions posed that the self employed craftsperson needs to be reminded of again and again to ensure a successful business.

For example:  ‘The Lifestyle – Are you cut out for it?’
‘Defining your style of Jewellery’
‘Who is your Customer?’

These are vital, practical questions which need to be addressed before embarking on any new venture. They help to take you away from the emotional side of a creative business (which can sometimes be difficult) to focus on the aspects which can sometimes be overlooked. For instance, the fact that you will spend more time marketing, promoting, selling, accounting etc etc your jewellery, than you will actually spend making and designing it! This was something I did not fully appreciate until I was actually doing it! It’s rather a disheartening prospect but it is reality and you have to be prepared for it.

Lareau then moves on to discuss, ‘Building Your Portfolio’ which is perhaps a more obvious starting point for most people as it is a seemingly ‘nice’ task. She stresses the importance of creating a style and theme which will appeal to your ‘target customer’. Again great advice, and again something which many would not appreciate when first starting out. It’s far too easy to design a logo or motif which looks nice, but would be completely unrelated to your ‘target customer’.

As I read through each chapter I found I was picking up invaluable tips left, right and centre. In fact I’ve come across a few business mantras that will, without doubt be going up on the workshop wall!

The guide to pricing work is again extremely practical. Despite some of the terminology being aimed at the US market, it is still entirely suitable for the UK and gives a much more realistic approach than I was given at University. Lareau also explains clearly the difference between wholesale and retail pricing which again, is vital to get right if you are to look professional.

Throughout this book, Lareau pulls her readers sharply back into reality, providing focus and direction in bite sized chunks. The chapters are short and easy to absorb, written in plain English (American) and are easily transferable between different types of creative industries. I would say that this book is a vital read for anyone considering starting their own creative business.  I would also recommend it to anyone whose existing business has perhaps lost a little focus. The chapters will help you to reassess and evaluate your market position, take stock of your situation and strip things back to basics which we all need to do from time to time. All in all, a great read.

Click here to purchase your copy!